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HomeMy WebLinkAboutZ-36770 f Town of Southold Annex 2/12/2014 (114" 54375 Main Road Southold, New York 11971 PRE EXISTING CERTIFICATE OF OCCUPANCY No: 36770 Date: 1/7/2014 THIS CERTIFIES that the structure(s) located at: 7635 Main Bayview Rd, Southold SCTM 473889 Sec/Block/Lot: 78.-9-30.1 Subdivision: Filed Map No. Lot No. conforms substantially to the requirements for a built prior to APRIL 9, 1957 pursuant to which CERTIFICATE OF OCCUPANCY NUMBER Z- 36770 dated 1/7/2014 was issued and conforms to all the requriements of the applicable provisions of the law. The occupancy for which this certificate is issued is: wood frame one family dwelling and accessory shed.* NOTE: BP 9509 addition to dwelling COZ-19718 • BP 15450 acct' garage & workshop with non-habitable 2nd floor BP 19415 screened Porch addition COZ-2003. The certificate is issued to Dickinson, Wesley & Dickinson, Ors (OWNER) of the aforesaid building. SUFFOLK COUNTY DEPARTMENT OF HEALTH APPROVAL ELECTRICAL CERTIFICATE NO. PLUMBERS CERTIFICATION DATED *PLEASE SEE ATTACHED INSPECTION REPORT. Au o ' ed Si BUILDING DEPARTMENT TOWN OF SOUTHOLD HOUSING CODE INSPECTION REPORT LOCATION: 7635 Main Bayview Rd, Southold SUFF. CO. TAX MAP NO.: 78.-9-30.1 SUBDIVISION: NAME OF OWNER(S): Dickinson, Wesley & Ors. OCCUPANCY: ADMITTED BY: Scott Bennett SOURCE OF REQUEST: Dickinson, Wesley & Dickinson, Ors DATE: 1/7/2014 DWELLING: # STORIES: 2 # EXITS: 3 FOUNDATION: Brick CELLAR: 2/3 CRAWL SPACE: 1/3 BATHROOM(S): 2 TOILET ROOM(S): I UTILITY ROOM(S): PORCH TYPE: DECK TYPE: PATIO TYPE: BREEZEWAY: FIREPLACE: 1 GARAGE: DOMESTIC HOTWATER: Yes TYPE HEATER: Oil AIR CONDITIONING: TYPE HEAT: Oil WARM AIR: X HOT WATER: # BEDROOMS: 5 # KITCHENS: I BASEMENT TYPE: Unfinished OTHER: ACCESSORY STRUCTURES: GARAGE, TYPE OF CONST: STORAGE, TYPE OF CONST: 2 wood frame SWIMMING POOL: GUEST, TYPE OF CONST: OTHER: VIOLATIONS: REMARKS: INSPECTED BY: GARYF DATE OF INSPECTION: 1/8/2014 TIME START: END: `165- S~ ID a- Form No.6 TOWN OF SOUTHOLD BUILDING DEPARTMENT TOWN HALL 765-1802 APPLICATION FOR CERTIFICATE OF OCCUPANCY This application must be filled in by typewriter or ink and submitted to the Building Department with the following: A. For new building or new use: 1. Final survey of property with accurate location of all buildings, property lines, streets, and unusual natural or topographic features. 2. Final Approval from Health Dept. of water supply and sewerage-disposal (S-9 form). 3. Approval of electrical installation from Board of Fire Underwriters. 4. Sworn statement from plumber certifying that the solder used in system contains less than 2/10 of I% lead. 5. Commercial building, industrial building, multiple residences and similar buildings and installations, a certificate of Code Compliance from architect or engineer responsible for the building. 6. Submit Planning Board Approval of completed site plan requirements. B. For existing buildings (prior to April 9, 1957) non-conforming uses, or buildings and "pre-existing" land uses: 1. Accurate survey of property showing all property lines, streets, building and unusual natural or topographic features. 2. A properly completed application and consent to inspect signed by the applicant. If a Certificate of Occupancy is denied, the Building Inspector shall state the reasons therefor in writing to the applicant. C. Fees I . Certificate of Occupancy - New dwelling $50.00, Additions to dwelling $50.00, Alterations to dwelling $50.00, Swimming pool $50.00, Accessory building $50.00, Additions to accessory building $50.00, Businesses $50.00. 2. Certificate of Occupancy on Pre-existing Building - $100.00 3. Copy of Certificate of Occupancy - $.25 4. Updated Certificate of Occupancy - $50.00 5. Temporary Certificate of Occupancy - Residential $15.00, Commercial $15.00 Date. `Y613 New Construction: Old or Pre-existing Building: _ (check one) p Location of Property: 24 ~j I" Y- /ate L42 Kp _ House No. 7 Street Hamlet Owner or Owners of Property: Aj Z,4,0,~~ rwl Cvg a6~ Suffolk County Tax Map No 1000, Section Block Lot Subdivision _ Filed Map. Lot: Permit No. Date of Permit. Applicant:- Health Dept. Approval: Underwriters Approval: Planning Board Approval Request for: Temporary Certificate Final Certificate: (check one) Fee Submitted: S Applicant Signature e, o, 143r CONSENT TO INSPECTION i~ 7 ,-I,1 I" " n~ ~F JAN - 62014 : I- P~ ,Q T' J~iIOID a undersigned, do(es) hereby state: / Own r( Name(s) That the undersigned (is) (are) the owner(s) of the premises in the Town of Southold, located at which is shown and designated on the Suffolk County Tax Map as District 1000, Sections Ag 4Block_77ff. Lot_ -3p, 1 . That the undersigned (has) (have) filed, or cause to be filed, an application in the Southold Town Building Inspector's Office for the following: That the undersigned do(es) hereby give consent to the Building Inspectors of the Town of Southold to enter upon the above described property, including any and all buildings located thereon, to conduct such inspections as they may deem necessary with respect to the aforesaid application, including inspections to determine that said premises comply with all of the laws, ordinances, rules and regulations of the Town of Southold. The undersigned, in consenting to such inspections, do(es) so with the knowledge and understanding that any information obtained in the conduct of such inspections may be used in subsequent prosecutions for violations of the laws, ordinances, rules or regulations of the Town of Southold. Dated: (Signature) 1~1~-sc.r: ~I TZ tlrc~t~ o~ (Print N me) (Signature) / ~_4ffEl 5~ mac K1 cN (Print Name) ---ROBERT O'BRIEN P.E. CONSULTING ENGINEERING SERVICES ECI 20 44 MAIN ROAO. P.O. BOX 456. LAUREL. NY 11946 631-296-5252 November 14, 2013 Mr. Andrew McGowan, Technical Specialist Travelers Boat & Yacht Division P. O. Box 76 Cutchogue, New York 11935 7635 Main Bayview Road Southold, NY Dear Mr. McGowan: Per your request, a structural and mechanical inspection of the above-captioned property was made on November 14, 2013. The findings of that inspection, plus rec- ommendations for improvements, are as follows: The original house was built in 1726. There were several later additions dating from 1800 to 1978. They are one and two-story wood-framed structures with asphalt shingle roofs and wood shingle siding. Basic construction of the older portions of the house consist of hand-axed vertical timber walls and "A"-framed roof rafters. The floor joists that support the wide board wood planking are half split logs mortised and tendoned into the sides of solid wood girders. The newer additions are constructed of modern dimensional lumber and have concrete block perimeter foundation walls. The root cellar and some of the other foun- dation walls have the original rubble stones. The north addition's full-height utility room is accessible by an interior stair. When the foundation was excavated, concrete block knee walls were constructed to re- tain the soil under the shallow rubble stone south foundation walls. A built-up wood girder with steel pipe columns supports the floor joists at the north side. The original Page 2 hand-axed solid wood girders support the half split log joists at the south side. New di- mensional joists have been added between some of the log joists for added support. A number of 4" x 4" posts have also been wedged between the bottoms of the log joists and top of the knee wall. The original root cellar is accessible by a wood hatch-covered stone stair at the west side of the house. The split log joists generally span wall to wall. Heavy hand- axed timbers supported by the south rubble foundation wall and the brick chimney foun- dation support the fireplaces above. The low-height crawl space under the newer southeast addition is accessible by a wood hatch in the south concrete block foundation wall. The floor joists are supported by wood girders resting on concrete block and brick piers. Rigid Styrofoam panels and fiberglass batts have been installed on the inside faces of the perimeter walls. Fiberglass insulation has been installed between the floor joists in the utility room and southeast addition. Batts have also been placed up against the faces of the rubble stone walls located above the concrete block knee walls in the utility room. The newer structural members visible appear to be in good condition. Powder post beetle damage is evident in the older members. In particular the outer bark of the split logs. The wood sill plate above the west rubble stone wall in the root cellar has a large amount of wet rot. The following reinforcing is recommended: (1) For proper anchorage, the top-bearing plates of all the steel pipe columns need lag screws installed. The guide holes for the screws should be pre-drilled to pre- vent splitting of the wood girder. (2) A built-up wood girder with steel pipe columns and concrete footings should be installed at the center span of the split log joists in the root cellar. (3) The log joist above the knee wall at the south side of the utility room stair has ex- tensive powder post beetle damage and has split. It needs a 4" x 4" post installed under it. Another damaged joist, which is hanging down in the southeast addi- tion's crawl space, also needs a support post. Page 3 The concrete block foundation walls in the utility room and rubble stone walls in the root cellar appear to be generally in good condition. There are some loose, pow- dery joists that need to be raked out and repointed with mortar. In particular in the brick foundation walls for the original fireplaces. The north wall in the utility room has a large area that has been parged with mor- tar. It is possible that the concrete blocks were removed so that the oil tank could be in- stalled in the basement. The exact need for the repair should be determined. The basement was dry at the time of inspection. The root cellar and southeast crawl space were damp and humid. To lessen the conditions and also to prevent the development of high humidity levels, which promote wet rot and mold growth, the follow- ing measures are recommended: (1) Installation of rain gutters and leaders at all of the roofs lacking them. All of the rain gutter leaders need to be extended to deposit water away from the house foundation walls. A preferred alternative would be to attach them to buried plastic pipes running to drywells located a distance away from the house. The gutters need to be cleaned frequently to prevent them from overflowing. (2) Re-grading the ground areas next to the foundation walls to pitch water away from the house. The soil in the bottom of the north window well should be excavated down to clean sand. Coarse gravel can then be placed, extending up to within four inches of the window sill. This to insure that it drains freely. (3) Replacing the wood hatch doors and frame on the exterior stair with a new weath- er-tight steel or fiberglass unit. (4) Removal of all stored items and debris in the southeast crawl space and placement of new heavyweight reinforced 14-mil plastic tarps on the bare ground area to limit moisture evaporation. They should be weighed down with bricks or concrete blocks to prevent movement. The foundation fresh air vent in place should also be opened in the summer months to exhaust moisture from the space. It is presently blocked closed. Page 4 (5) The dehumidifier in place should be kept in operation throughout the year to re- move moisture from the air. Note: The dehumidifier appears to be the same type as on a past recall list by the manufacturer. As it could pose a fire hazard, it should not be used until it is either determined that it has been repaired or that it is a newer model. An ejector pump unit should be installed for the dehumidifier's condensate water. The pump's plastic tubing would run to the exterior. This would eliminate the need to empty the drain bucket on a daily basis in the summer months. It can also be used for the air-conditioner's condensate line. (6) The water supply main in the basement should be fully insulated. This to prevent condensation from forming in the summer months, adding to the humidity level. (7) A raised fiberglass shower pan should be installed for the outside shower with its drain piped away from the house foundation wall and run to a drywell. R-19 fiberglass insulation with a fully-encapsulated vapor barrier should be in- stalled between the floor joists in the root cellar, with the vapor barrier facing the heated space above. This after the high humidity conditions are remediated. A handrail needs to be installed for safety at the bottom of the exterior stone stair. A weather-tight door assembly should also be installed at the base of the stair to prevent heat loss from the root cellar in the winter months. Due to the past evidence of powder post beetle damage noted in the older struc- tural members, both in the basement and attic, it is recommended that a thorough in- spection be made of the house and barn by a pest control company. This to determine if any active insect infestations still exist. A woodpecker appeared to be probing for in- sects at the southwest corner of the house. The corner trim should be inspected up close, along with the wet-rotted sill plate at the west side of the root cellar for insect damage. As the house is in a rural area, mice bait stations should be installed in the basement and crawl spaces. They need to be maintained on a regular basis to be ef- fective. If there are any young children or pets in the house, fully enclosed-type units must be used for safety. A dead mouse in the root cellar needs to be removed. The wood end wall louver at the south side of the house appears to have been damaged by squirrels trying to gain entry into the attic. Heavy-gauge screening should be installed over the vanes. Page 5 County water is supplied by a copper main and shut-off valve at the west founda- tion wall. There is a pressure reducing valve on the main. The pressure reading on the gauge was 80 P. S. I. It is recommended that it be reduced to 70 P. S. I. This to de- crease the strain on the copper plumbing pipes' solder joints. The main valve was in the "off' position and the bath and kitchen fixtures could not be tested. The old, brick well pit in the root cellar has been covered with a steel plate. The plate should be secured in place or the pit filled in with sand to the top for safety. . The main water supply shut-off valve should be closed when leaving the house for an extended period. This to limit the extent of damage should a leak develop in the system or a pipe burst. For convenience, an electric solenoid valve can be installed on the main in the basement. This would allow for the water to be shut off remotely by a wall switch, which would be located near the front door. Hot and cold-water lines are copper. A large number have various types of insu- lation covering them. Where visible, they appear to be generally in fair to good condi- tion, with some corrosion at a number of valves and fittings. Some of the older gate- type valves may leak at the valve stems and bonnets when opened and closed. Re- placement with new ball-type valves may be needed. The plastic jacketing on the hot-water lines should be replaced with new neo- prene jacketing to prevent heat loss. Additional plastic-coated or copper pipe hangers need to be installed on the lines. The outside shower and hose bibbs' supply lines need to be drained prior to winter to prevent freezing and damage. The waste system consists of plastic P. V. C. fixture lines connected to an exteri- or main running to a septic system. It should be determined if the original septic system was upgraded from cesspools to a modern septic system with a septic tank and leach- ing pools when the house was renovated. If it was not upgraded, the exact location of all the cesspools should be determined, as they need to be cleaned periodically for proper operation of the system. Due to their age, it is recommended that they be pumped out that the walls be examined. This to assess their condition and insure that they are structurally stable. If it is found that frequent cleaning is needed, consideration Page 6 should be given to their replacement with a modern septic system. All solids would set- tle out into the septic tank. The clean effluent would then percolate into the ground around the leaching pools. This type of system requires much less maintenance than cesspools and would greatly reduce maintenance costs. There is a waste line for the clothes washer, which appears to run out through the foundation wall, discharging the water onto the ground. This may indicate that the main septic system has a limited ca- pacity and cannot handle the additional volume of water. Note: The discharge line for the clothes washer is hard-connected to the waste trap. It needs to be re-installed connecting to an open "P" trap. This to prevent the possibility of back-siphoning of the waste water back into the washing machine and possibly contaminating the cold-water supply line. It appears that some of the baths may lack fresh air pipes, which can cause drainage and odor problems. If they are renovated, vent pipes will need to be installed in the interior wall cavities and run up through the roof or tied into a main vertical vent stack in the north bedroom closet to conform to present Codes. If the house plumbing lines are to be drained for winter, non-toxic anti-freeze will need to be installed in all the kitchen and bath fixture waste traps to prevent freezing and damage. Hot water is provided by a fairly new 32-gallon oil-fired tank heater. This type of heater has a good recovery rate and can provide a large amount of hot water in a short period of time. It should be sufficient for your household needs. The heating and air-conditioning system consists of a fairly new oil-fired hot air furnace. There is an evaporator core in the furnace's duct plenum for air-conditioning. The compressor/condensing unit is mounted on a pad at the north side of the house. Metal ducts supply floor registers at most of the rooms at the first floor and the north bedroom and bath at the second floor. There are return air floor grills at the first floor. There is one zone controlled by a wall thermostat in the first floor hall. There are also electric baseboard heating units in some of the rooms. The second floor east bedroom and unfinished storage room lack heat. Page 7 Due to the low outside temperature, the system was operated in the heating mode only, as the air-conditioning compressor and other components could be dam- aged by the cold temperature. It generally appeared to function properly. Air flow was normal at most of the registers. It was restricted at the second floor. The cause is probably due to the sizing and layout of the ducts and the distance of the registers from the furnace. The furnace and hot water heater should be cleaned and inspected by a heating company to determine their present condition and verify that they are operating at max- imum efficiency. All safety controls and devices also need to be tested. This to insure that they will perform properly in the event of a burner or other malfunction. The ex- haust flue pipe joints and connections should be checked for any carbon monoxide gas leakage. The heating units need to be cleaned and serviced at least once a year. This must include replacement of each oil burner gun's spray nozzle and the filter in the fuel oil supply line's glass canister. Note: It is important that the heat exchanger in the fur- naces' firebox be inspected at the same time to insure that it is fully intact. This as it is subject to deterioration over time due to the corrosive combustion gases. Openings in the steel firebox could allow carbon monoxide gases to enter the duct work, posing a hazard. The exhaust flue pipes also need to be cleaned to prevent blockages due to the accumulation of combustion debris, which could cause carbon monoxide to back up into the living space. All of the metal heating ducts in the basement and crawl space should be insu- lated with fiberglass duct-wrap to prevent heat loss. There is a foam mat attached to the bottom of the return air duct in the utility room. Its purpose is not apparent. There is a humidifier in the furnace's air supply duct to add moisture to the air during the heating season. The wicking element in the humidifier's reservoir needs to be replaced yearly to prevent the possibility of mold growth and should be changed yearly. It is important that the humidity level is precisely controlled by the humidistat relative to the outside temperature. This as excessively high humidity levels in the house could present conditions favorable to mold growth. Note: The humidifier needs to be turned off in the summer months when the air-conditioning system is in use. This as condensation from the moist air could damage the furnaces' heat exchanger. Page 8 The electric air filter located in the return air duct does not appear to be function- al. This as the pilot light on the side of the filter housing was off, even though the heat- ing system was in operation. If a repair is not possible, a static filter will need to be in- stalled. The air-conditioner's compressor/condenser unit should be covered with a tarp with side vent flaps to protect it from snow and ice in the winter months. The shrubs around the compressor/condenser unit need to be kept cut back. This to provide suffi- cient air flow to the fan housing for maximum cooling efficiency. The electric baseboard heating units were operated and functioned properly. To prevent further rain water entry, which can corrode the furnace and hot-water heater's metal flue pipes, a stainless steel rain cap should be installed on the top of the chimney's terra-cotta flue. The screened cap will also prevent animal entry and a pos- sible blockage. 5/8" fire-rated sheetrock needs to be installed on the bottom of the wood floor joists above the heating boiler, hot water heater and their metal exhaust flue pipes. The new fuel oil storage tank is located in the basement. There were no signs of leakage. Note: It was stated that the original tank was buried at the exterior. The abatement contractor's certificate should be obtained from the owner verifying that it was either removed or properly abandoned in place. The propane tank for the fireplace logs is located at the east side of the house. It is recommended that a second tank be installed as a reserve. This so that when the first tank becomes empty there will be a constant supply of propane until the tank can be refilled. A gas supply line should be run from the tank's pressure regulator for the barbeque. It will eliminate the need to refill the standard small portable tanks. A similar propane tank is located at the rear of the barn for its two unit heaters. The fire and carbon monoxide detectors' sensor elements degrade over time and detectors should be replaced at least every five years. New carbon monoxide and fire detectors should be installed at the first and second floors and the basement. They Page 9 should be tested periodically to insure that they are in operating order and providing protection. The back-up batteries, which are needed to keep them operating when there are power failures, should be changed at least once a year. The electrical service provides 200-amperes at 110/220 volts, which is sufficient for the circuits and appliances in the house and barn. Some of the tree limbs are touch- ing and others are in close proximity to the main service wires running from the utility pole to the house. They need to be cut back to prevent possible wear in the outer rub- ber jacketing protecting the wires, which could result in a short circuit. L. I. P. A., the utility company, should be notified so that they can schedule a work crew to trim the trees. The main service panel box is mounted on the west foundation wall. There is a sub-panel box in the middle of the room and another in the barn. A number of the cir- cuit breakers are not labeled. Each of the circuit breakers need detailed usage labels for proper identification. It is recommended that new, detailed log sheets identifying each breaker be posted on the panel box doors. The descriptions should be cross- referenced with numbers installed next to each breaker. The sub-panel box in the basement is breakered at the main panel box for 60-amperes. It is filled to capacity and also contains a large number of high-amperage breakers. It is recommended that the oven and clothes dryer breakers be relocated to the main panel box. They should also be installed on alternate hot legs. This to more evenly balance the load on the panel boxes. A number of the circuit breaker knockout plates have been removed at the barn sub-panel box. The openings need plastic or metal blank plates installed for safety and to conform to Code. An electrical service panel ground wire needs to be attached to the copper cold water house main where it enters the house for proper grounding of the piping. All exte- rior, kitchen counter, bath, basement and barn outlets need to be ground-fault protect- ed. The floor outlets in the barn loft could present a hazard and need to be protected with ground fault-type outlets. For safety, all old two-prong wall outlets should be changed to modern three-prong grounded types. Additional wall outlets are needed in some of the rooms. Some of the outlet cover plates are missing and need to be in- stalled. The steel casings on the old BX cable circuit wires are extensively rusted from the humid conditions. They should be replaced with new Romex circuit wires. There is Page 10 an extension cord in the north attic space that has been attached to a drop light with plastic wire nuts. It presents a fire hazard and needs to be removed. The loose hang- ing light switch in the root cellar needs to be secured to its junction box. As power outages lasting several days are common on eastern Long Island dur- ing major storm periods, consideration should be given to installation of a back-up emergency electrical generator system. It would provide power to a small electrical sub-panel box with manual transfer switches located in the basement next to the main electrical service panel. The panel box would contain only essential circuits, such as re- frigerator, heating system, hot water heater and one lighting circuit at each level of the house. Due to the unprofessional, homeowner-installed look of some of the wiring in the house and barn, it is recommended that the entire system be examined by a licensed electrician. Fire Underwriter's Certificates should be obtained for all of the house, site and barn wiring. Most rooms have wide wood plank floors. Some with area rugs. The second floor south bedroom has wall-to-wall carpeting. They appear to be generally in fair con- dition, except for the sloping. It is most pronounced at the south half of the house. In particular at the dayroom. The walls and ceilings appear to be a mix of newer sheetrock panels and the original plaster on wood laths. The plaster walls have been covered over with wallpaper or wood boards. There are also wood accent beams on some of the walls and ceilings. The north addition bedroom ceiling has wood boards and the bath partially exposed wood rafters that have been painted. The original outside end wall wood shingles are still in place on the south walls of the bedroom and bath. They appear to be in fair to good condition. For safety, new graspable handrails should be installed on all of the stairs, both in the house and barn. The kitchen and bath fixtures appear to be generally in fair to good condition. They will need to be tested when the water is turned on. Page 11 All appliances which will remain should be tested just prior to closing. The in- struction manuals and warranties should be obtained from the owner, including those for the heating units. It appears that the original fireplaces have been partially re-built with terra-cotta liners, which have pull chain-operated flap dampers at the top. Due to their age and the shallow depth of the fireboxes, it is recommended that they not be used for burning wood. The fireplace in the dayroom, which still has the original built-in brick oven, should not be used, even for a gas log. This as the wood mantel above the firebox at the smoke shelf is exposed, except for a thin sheet of metal. What appears to be a large Styrofoam block, which may be flammable, has also been wedged in the access opening for the oven. What appears to be aluminum foil or a metal flashing was noted in the dining room's corbeled brick flue. It should not be used until it is determined if there is a blockage. Note: It cannot be used if it is found to share the same flue as the front par- lor fireplace. The open joints in the parlor's brick hearth need to be repointed with mor- tar. There appears to be a circular opening covered by a plate in the side of the brick chimney in the kitchen for an old wood burning stove behind a plate. It needs to be closed solid with masonry to prevent the possibility of carbon monoxide escaping into the room. No terra-cotta flue liner was noted protruding above the southeast addition's brick chimney for the freestanding wood burning stove. It should be verified that it is fully lined prior to use. Note: It is strongly recommended, due to the age of the fireplaces, that they be inspected by a chimney contractor. This should include an inspection of each flue and brick smoke shelf with a drop light. The flues should also be smoke tested. There are cracks in the chimney's concrete block mortar joints in the unfinished second floor attic space, which needs to be sealed. It is important that the smoke dampers be kept closed when the fireplaces are not in use to prevent heat loss and possible animal entry. Air-tight glass door enclo- sures should also be installed in front of the fireboxes to prevent heat loss in the winter months. Page 12 The newer roof rafters visible in the north addition bath appear to be in good condition. Foam insulation has been sprayed between the original roof rafters in the un- finished attic space/storage room at the second floor. There are small attic spaces at the north and south sides of the storage room accessible to view through wood hatches at the tops of the walls. There are wood planks and plywood panels on some of the floor joists. The structural members visible appear to be generally in fair condition. Most have black staining, possibly due to past roof leaks or a fire. The original hand- axed timber roof rafters are undersized and over-spaced by today's standards. They also are "A"-framed together and lack ridge beams. Powder post beetle damage is also evident. The conditions have resulted in pronounced sagging of the roof above them. The additional weight of the front dormer roof on the original roof rafters also appears to be a major contributor to the sagging. It is recommended that each rafter be posted with 4" x 4"s a third of the distance out from the eaves for additional support. Plywood gusset plates should also be nailed to the rafters where they butt together at the ridges. This in helping them from separating. The attic and rafter spaces lack sufficient ventilation. To prevent overheating of the spaces and accelerated deterioration of the asphalt roof shingles, the following work is recommended: The spray foam insulation should be removed from the underside of the roof in the storage space. Fiberglass batts should then be installed in its place. Continuous screened fascia vents will also need to be installed in the eaves, along with ridge vents. Plastic or polystyrene baffle vent boards will need to be installed between the roofs plywood sheathing and the fiberglass insulation. This to create one-inch open channels for free air flow from the fascia vents up and out of the ridge vents once they are installed. An additional six-inches of insulation without a vapor barrier be installed atop the existing in the other attic spaces. This to improve the overall energy efficiency of the house. The wood wall access hatches also need to be insulated and weather-stripped to prevent heat loss from the rooms. The exhaust fan unit in the north attic space ap- pears to have been blocked off when the north addition was constructed. It should be determined if all of the exterior walls of the older portions of the house are insulated. Small holes should be made at the interior of the walls to deter- mine if insulation exists. Any voids found should have loose insulation blown into them. Page 13 The damaged south end wall louver should be inspected up close to determine if it needs to be replaced. Daylight can be seen at the south end wall when viewed from the attic. It ap- pears that there are small openings that need to be closed to prevent insect entry. The asphalt shingle roofs visible from the ground and second floor appear to be generally in fair condition. This except for the pronounced sagging over the main house at the east side. There is a large build-up of moss growth on some of the roof shingles. The constant moist conditions could accelerate deterioration of the shingles. The tree limbs overhanging and in close proximity to the roofs need to be cut back to help in lessening the condition. The normal maximum life expectancy of the asphalt shingles, when new, is 20 to 25 years. It appears that the asphalt shingles at the east side of the south addition have been installed over the original wood shingles. This could make them subject to shingle loss. All of the shingles will need to be removed prior to in- stalling plywood, when they need to be replaced or if shingle loss occurs. The wood shingle siding appears to be generally in fair to good condition, along with the wood trim and fascias. The shingles on the south facing sides of the house are wearing thin, lifting and cupping. Consideration should be given to their replacement before leaks occur. Windows are mostly newer vinyl-clad wood thermopane double-hung types. There are a few original small single pane window units at the second floor. They ap- pear to be generally fair to good condition. A number of the sashes' thin nylon cord counter-balance springs have broken and need to be repaired. Most of the screens are missing and need to be installed. Some were noted in storage in the root cellar. The rear screened-in porch appears to be generally in fair condition. It appears that the deck supports are in direct contact with the ground. This makes them subject to wet rot. The screens need repairs made. It is recommended that the screens be made removable so that they can be stored away prior to winter. This will prevent damage due to a build up of snow on the screening and stretching caused by the wind. The large two-story barn in the rear yard has an asphalt shingle roof and vertical tongue-and-groove wood siding boards. It appears to be generally in good condition Page 14 and serviceable. The two propane-fired unit heaters should be tested prior to closing. It should be determined if a cover plate needs to be installed on the bottom of the floor hung heating unit's exhaust plenum. The rafter spaces at the second floor finished loft should have vents installed. Rain gutters and leaders should also be installed at the roof fascias. The beam protruding out of the end wall peak should not be used for hoist- ing unless it is reinforced and securely anchored where it rests on the interior collar ties. A circular driveway should be created so that cars can enter and exit from both Cedar Street and Main Bayview. This to eliminate the need to back out onto Main Bayview. It also needs to be widened and the shrubs encroaching on it cut back. The small tool and potting sheds appear serviceable. All shrubs in contact with the house and barn siding need to be cut back, along with tree limbs overhanging the roofs. The large hollowed-out trees near the house and barn could present a hazard. They should be inspected by an arborist to determine if they can be saved or need to be removed. The Van Tuyl survey dated May 18, 1977, shows two houses on the same lot. It needs to be confirmed that they were made legally single and separate. The Certificates of Occupancy and Compliance for the original house, newer ad- ditions, screened-in porch, wood burning stove and barn should be obtained from the owner. It must be kept in mind that in reviewing this report its main purpose is to aid you in the determination of the present physical conditions of the major components. It is limited to those portions of the house and equipment that are readily accessible and can be examined visually without moving stored items, furniture, rugs, etc. Only a random number of multiple items, such as electrical outlets, lights, windows, etc., are individually tested to determine the general condition of that grouping. Environmental issues, such as, but not limited to, lead paint, mold, buried tanks, soil and groundwater contamina- tion, hazardous waste, materials containing asbestos, formaldehyde, radon, or other Page 15 similar possible hazards, are not addressed. The New York State Property Condition Disclosure Act requires that the owner fill out a form listing any known problems, defects or environmental issues related to the house. This as they may only become apparent over time. It should be reviewed to determine if there are any concerns that need to be further investigated or remediated by specialists. The recommendations and sugges- tions contained herein are presented to improve the house and make it a better and more comfortable place in which to live. It must not be construed as a guarantee or warranty of the premises or equipment therein, nor does it purport that the physical plant is in compliance with all state and local codes. This report is solely for you and your attorney's use. It is not assignable or transferable to any third party without the express permission of the engineer. If you have any questions regarding the above, please feel free to contact me. Very truly yours e rien P. E. 4 ~ •J tbWN OF SOUTHOLD RERTY RE CARD ` *M `OWNER STREET VILLAGE DISTRICT SUB. O I ~t ter, AM IA FORMER OWNER W. K. D)4klr60r?'6(fP N ( -~J E , - 4 7 REAGE S W TYPE OF BUILDING RES. a SEAS. VL FARM COMM. I IND. ( CB. MISC. Est. Mkt. Valise LAND IMP. TOTAL DATE REMARKS ,J~rr c. .S cT D i°/ao/~G' !3 ~I SS~So r s r• azcccss. D K . r/c ~~ro /7aa 22 s$ screens o4 n -lSna- a6 Gae z Qa 3000.-' /a 411 -L. ~3- ? Gki urs 5 G ME 30 °b B I DI G u}©Q $ pd.tc~ ,v g Y FRONTA E ON WATER FRONTAGE ON ROAD J Q X 1 BULKHEAD Z Z7y • 2 - SS a DOCK Tillable 3 Woodland Swampland Brushland House Plot I Total I 1 ' I } r I'~• f Idg.3 t Foundation Bath /i T nsi 3. Basement PA Floors w en5iai5 Ext. Walls &#OV Interior Finish r 'ion v'2 Fire Place 1 ~ li.eat /7ClO = /Zt~ 9! / Ov j /'s0 Porch Roof Type Porch Rooms 1st Floor ~ezeway Patio Rooms 2nd Floor r n K2,o -z 4 qo •?,5- I l b0 Driveway Dormer 2 wcV~ l~ Z3X A F F I D A V I T Re: Dickinson to McGowan Title No. TRAD 14-4535 STATE OF NEW YORK) SS: COUNTY OF SUFFOLK) Agnes P. Dickinson, being duly sworn, deposes and states as follows: That I am the owner, as Trustee, of property located at 7635 Main Bayview Road, Southold, NY 11971 (Suffolk County Tax Map Number 1000-078.00-09.00-030.001). Let this confirm that an addition/renovation was done to the existing one family dwelling in the late 1970's for which the Town of Southold Building Department issued a Certificate of Occupancy dated February 7, 1991 (Z19718). Let this confirm that as part of that project the electric heat was added to the 2°d floor and was there when the Certificate of Occupancy was issued. Let this further confirm that the wood stove which presently exists on the premises has been there since that time, and was there when the Certificate of Occupancy was issued. Let this further confirm that an accessory garage and workshop was added in the 1980's for which a Certificate of Occupancy was issued by the Town of Southold Building Department dated February 7, 1991 (Z-19717). Let this confirm that there has been no change to the insulation or the heat in the garage since that time. That there is a working carbon monoxide detector at the premises. I am giving this Affidavit knowing that the Town of Southold Building Department is relying on the accuracy contained herein. Agn P. Dickinson Sworn to before me this dO day of .T,Jd~~ey 2014. LN,,e> No ary Publicr~ iezs~~::rc- >-~ea C!!: 'irunry OLPfl d~`~4 ~ r f4ff+ + h t. Y 3 fv~°n s ~a~.~ y y.~w.~~a~rfef Q {~~~~.r.j~•~+1y a F~3 ~(y~3(?~ y ~ h'"'_ j" ~s ro~5 F`}f l s. j.4V~R"i~Ci k.4ct41^. - «.vrtS 1V , yyy 4.#./~ xw- k ° Y 2 r K AM) , It S.&0 W" E. , t0 .o d r)-L-1E1 IN. p a CrF~~ _ x.qY l f. ' ~ 1 UnauthoriaM sinretion a adRLMI C C f"1 t to this sung N a ~Ion of JJ~-J ! - Sx;tion 720t of thn Now, York FI r b A >v _ A 9v. IoM eunwM'a k3rd erA of mn4x+G cent oltik net bo ogWOotti/ ~'l' I Prl. . < r to be r Valle true ram. w . r i_. i Gtwamoe! InAmtrdmmm elmlTi 1M1 moy to the Verson, kr wham tM sur"y IF Vrowed, and on, W fish" to *4 r i - title oo,np*my. BaM6natl11Sl a/snar mld t-~ l"nu immution listed honors and l r - to the se ",tesa all the het" kqd. . tution. Gtsiuti wo not tramrMNM i ' to sci t anal insdamona w sukaqurY 661 M-NN 5A`fVt f: W iZl7AEi ~ of NEk y~~R~GKV4~~p~ AS SUf2VEYEC3 _ AUG. 12 1986 ( 4 ° z • .`rtes sY". 7 Y .H SY xE LOCATION: (number & street) (municipality) SUBDIVISION: MAP NO.: LOT(S): NAME OF OWNER(S): OCCUPANCY: (type) (owner-tenant) ADMITTED BY: 5Cp"~' &Z ACCOMPANIED BY: KEY AVAILABLE: SUFF. CO. TAX MAP NO. 1000-_ SOURCE OF REQUEST: DATE: DWELLING TYPE OF CONSTRUCTION: ~Jf~,STORIES: /(WO # EXITS: 3 FOUNDATION: _ ? ~/~(C/t_ BASEMENT: 213- CRAWL SPACE. j # OF BEDROOMS: 1ST FLR: 2ND FLR: *50, 3RD FLR BATHROOM(S):A TOILET ROOM(S): _ UTILITY ROOM: PORCH TYPE:SC,A&or.J DECK, TYPE: PATIO, TYPE: BREEZEWAY: FIREPLACE: GARAGE: DOMESTIC HOTWATER: TYPE HEATER:_ AIRCONDITIONING: TYPE HEAT: WARM AIR: W-~ HOTWATER: # OF KITCHENS: 07A. FINISHED BASEMENT: YES NO ? OTHER: ACCESSORY STRUCTURES GARAGE, TYPE OF CONST.: W04 fi-;9x j,c STORAGE, TYPE CONST.: _ C? SWIMMING POOL: GUEST, TYPE CONST: OTHER: VIOLATIONS: CHAPTER 144 & N.Y. STATE UNIFORM FIRE PREVENTION & BUILDING CODE LOCATI - DESCRIPTION ART. SEC. W)NL~k 7)1 n ~ RE INSPECTED BY: DATE OF INSPECTION: TIME START: END: