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1640 -1965
THE TOWN OF SOUTHOLD, NEW YORK
SOUTHOLD TODAY
GREETINGS!
We of Southold Town have much to be thankf.~l for as we celebrate the
325th Anniversary of the founding of our Town, and it is proper that we
reflect on its interesting beginning and development ia order that we may
appreciate and enjoy our area the more.
Much will be said about its historic past, but I feel we should a~so
pause . . . and give thought to the needs of the future. It is a challenge to ail
of us in Southold Town to plan and work toward a growing community which
will satisfy the hopes and dreams of our residents, and steadily build a worth-
while record of which we can be proud, when we take a special look at our
accomplishments at the time of our 350th anniversary.
Southold is an important part of the fastest growing county in the
country and is experiencing a steady growth. In order to insure well-balanced
growth the Town has contracted for a master plan for future development. This
includes a complete economic base study by Cornell University which will give
us a thorough knowledge of the sources of our income, whether agriculture,
~ishing, t~urism or other, and of which ones will be increasingly important in
the years before us. Another portion of the master plan deals with the availabil-
ity of potable water which is being done by competent hydrology engineers.
As it applies to land utilization, it will allow for land to be reserved for public
recreation, municipal purposes, school expansion, conservation of wet lands a~d
other important uses.
I hope that through the application of proper planning Southold's growth
will be such as to insure for all our people as pleasant a place to live in as it
is today.
LESTER M. ALBERTSON
[1]
MUSEUMS
Southold r'::ARN
VILLAGE HOUSE
Orient
C~tchOg~'e
[2]
PROGRAM OF EVENTS
Open All Summer
SOUTHOLD HISTORICAL SOCIETY
Museum and Gallery
Old Pine Neck Barn: Carriages
and Farm Equipment
Out-Buildings: Exhibits
Main Street, Southold
OPEN: Tuesday, Thursday,
Sunday 3:00-5:00 P. M.
May 30 to September 19
CUTCHOGUE-NEW SUFFOLK
COUNCIL
Old School House
Library: Exhibits
Old Barn
HISTORICAL
Village Green, Cutchogue
OPEN: Daily 2:00-5:00 P. M.
May 30 to September 6
OYSTERPONDS HISTORICAL SOCIETY
Village House: Museum
Old School House: Exhibits
Hallock House: Nautical Museum
Village Lane, Orient
OPEN: Tuesday, Thursday,
Saturday, Sunday
2:00-5:00 P. M.
June 26 to October 15
OLD
FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH
Exhibit of old records and
colonial antiques; links of old
church to Southwold, England
Main Street, Southold
OPEN: Fridays 2:00-5:00 P. M.
July 2 to August 27
Guides by prior arrange-
ment
CONGREGATIONAL SOCIETY OF CUTCHOGUE
The Old House,
A National Historic Monument
Village Green, Cutchogue
OPEN: Daily 2:00-5:00 P. M.
May 30 to September 6
L. I. CHAPTER N. Y. STATE ARCHAEOLOGICAL
SOCIETY
Museum of Indian Artifacts
Bay View Road, Southold
OPEN: Thursday and Sunday
2:00 - 4:00 P. M.
July I to August 29
CUSTER INSTITUTE
Observatory
Bay View Road, Southold
OPEN: Fridays 8:30-10:30 P. M.
July 2 to August 27
WEBB HOUSE
Museum: Period Furnishings
Village Lane, Orient
OPEN: Tuesday, Thursday,
Saturday, Sunday
2:00-5:00 P. M.
July I to October 15
WHITAKER HISTORICAL COLLECTION Main Street,
Part of the local history collection of Southold Free Library.
Available for research purposes during regular Library hours.
Southold
[3]
PROGRAM OF EVENTS
MAY
Sunday, May 30 Southold Historical Society, Main Street, Southold
3:00 P.M. Opening of Museum and dedication of new Art Gallery
JUNE
Sunday, June 13 Mattituck Presbyterian Church, Main Street, Mattituck
3:00 P.M. Special 250th Anniversary Service
Speaker: Dr. Lawrence W. McMaster, Secretary to General
Council of Board of National Missions
Saturday, June 19 Mattituck Lions Club, Mattituck H. S. Grounds, Mattituck
Starts 12:00 Noon Annual Strawberry Festival
Sunday, June 20 L.I. Chapter N. ¥. State Archaeological Society,
2:30 P.M. Bay View Road, Southold
Special Lecture by Edward D. Patterson, Curator
County Museum of Natural History
of Nassau
Saturday, June 26 Oysterponds Historical Society, Village Lane, Orient
2:00 P.M. Formal Opening of Museum
Sunday, June 27 Old First Presbyterian Church, Main Street, Southold
11:00 A.M. Special 325th Anniversary Service
Keynote Address: Dr. Alexander Mackie, Chairman,
Board of Trustees, Conwell School of Theology
12:15 P.M. Reception, Christian Education Building
Sunday, June 27 Southold Historical Society, Main Street, Southold
3:00 P.M. Unveiling of Leo Roon's bronze head of first president,
Ann Hallock Cuttle-Bell
JULY
Saturday, July 3 Southold Historical Society, Main Street, Southold
3:00 P.M. Flagpole Raising and Dedication Ceremony
Saturday, July 3 Southold Fire Department, Main Street, Southold
Starts 7:00 P.M. Annual Block Dance
Sunday, July 4 Greenport Celebration Committee
Naval Vessel in Greenport Harbor and Maritime Displays
Monday, July 5 Greenport Celebration Committee
10:30 A.M. Grand Boat Parade from Greenport Harbor
to Founders' Landing, Southold
[4]
PROGRAM OF EVENTS
Thursday, July 8
8'(~P M
Saturday, July 10
t000A M.-500PM
Annual Parade and ?tfaz~ar
Vfilago Green~ Cutchogm,
Flea Market
Tuesday, Wednesday,
Thursday
July 13, I4, 15
Start~ t0 00 A
M
~aturday~ July 17
6 00P, M.
l,awn Pxcrnc and "Whatever" Sk~;w
Sunday~ July 18
tt00A M
Sla~:lal Celebrahon Serve. ce
Speakm. Bt~N~p Lloyd W.~cke
7 30P, M
A ~rvice of Meth~d~t Memory
Saturday, July 24
830P, M
Cmtvr Ivc, t{tute, Bay View Road, ~mth~ld
Charle~ Elmer Memorial I,~-ture
Sl~aker: Kenneth Craven, D~r~wt,~r, Resc;~rch ami
Developm~t, W~ndham C~dlege
Wedne~,day, July 28
t'00 P. M
Southold th~tor~¢a! ~c~ety
Gen Wayne' Inn. Bay V~-.. w R-ad, S~mfl~id
Lunch~.m and H~t,a'ical Pag~'a~t of C,~slume, 1640-I965
:$450 ali mcimave
Thur;day, Friday, Saturday
July 2~, ~?l, $I
7:00 P. M,
Ammal Block Par~y
Frlday~ Saturday
July 30~ 3t
gtSP M.
!'i.~_y h, ,u.%e, Mattel uck
July 31
200PM
Town D(,~,k, Matt.quc'k lnl,q, Maltituck
A Tribute to the Amer~.can Ind{an, including
Indian Dances
authentic
[51
PROGRAM OF EVENTS
JULY -- continued
S~mthold Methodist Church. Main Stre~L S~mthvid
An Evening of American Folk a~ Contvm~,~arv M~:w
8 ISPM.
~ur~d~v, Friday. Satu~d~.y
August 5~ ti. 7
? ~q~ P M
August 7
30 P M
AUGUST
N~rth F~rk Player~ N~rth I%~k
Special Anniver~ry Prodt~
"I~d~t~ In Retir~nnenf~
Playhou*e~ Mattltuck
{;r~n[~rt Fire Delmrtment,
Ohl Gr*}undi, Greenport
Annual Block Party
Ma!t~tuck Preabyterian Church. Mum
Oht Fa~In,n~d Country Fair and
Barbi~zue
Strt"eL Ma'~tituck
2 30 P M.
7 (U~ P M
2 9OP:M
Sunday, August 22
l'L~lurday. Augmt 28
5 00-7'30 P. M.
Tuesday. W~-fm-> day.
Thursday. August 31
September I. 2
Vtinday, S*'ptember 5
Vdlage Green. Cutchogue
t~,xi~t',d~,m of Old Wdham Wickham }tou~
C~unlrv Squar~~ t)anc~' on the Green
325th Anniversary Committee. Mum Street.
Grand Parade -- Marehe~% Band~ and Float~
Pre.~entation of Trophle~
l Alternate Parade Date in case of rain)
Cutch,~gue Fire Department, New Suff~dk Ave. Cutch-gue
Annual Chicken Barbecue
AUGUST - SEf~i'EMBER
Mattituck Yacht Club. Great Pccontc Bay,
International Champion.~hips
Comet Ciasa Yacht Racing Asac<'iation
Mathtac k
South{,ld Yacht Club, ~mth.ld tlar*~r, South*rid
Annual Regatta
Competition for the "Anniw'rsary Cup"
[61
OLD TIMES
From 1830
OLD MII.L
BLACKSMITH SHOP
FIRST SETTI.EMENT HOME
of Barnabas }torton
~ '~ pOT-BELLIeD STOVE
M I LESTONE
One of 24
[ 7] erected 1756
THIS WAS SOUTHOLD
By MARY HALDANE CtlAPMAN, Town Historian
~' F man has been on earth only the wink of an
eye in time, then the Town of Soutbold has
existed the barest flicker. Three hundred and
twenty-five years may seem a great span to many;
it is an incomprehensible figure to those with no
feeling of history. To these a conception of the
cave man is as clear as of the white men who first
settled the small area of Long Island that forms
our township. This northeastern fork at that time
was known as "Yennicot" by the Indians.
Dr. Dixon Fox once said, "The past, of course
exists, whether we are interested in it or not,
whether we know of it or not .... the beritage of
men's dreams in times past, of men's work and
men's achievements, is but another name for the
world we live in". It was Maeterlinck, in his "The
Power of the Dead" who declared, "It is they (our
ancestors) that have nmde us what we are, and we
exist only through them!" Wipe out
all the works of our forefathers, deposit
us amidst the forests of Yennicot with
only a few aborigines, wolves mid other
wild beasts abounding, and we perhaps
could imagine the importance of the
long line of men who came before us
here.
\Vho were these men of 1640 who
came and saw and conquered? They
were Englishmen searching for a new
life. Their motives in coming were
undoubtedly mixed; civil anti religious freedom;
dire need; dreams of a land of hope and glory. With
some it was perhaps the desire for adventure or
wealth. From many parts of England, sailing from
different ports and in many vessels they arrived
in Massachusetts over a period ranging roughly
from 1630 to 1660. Dissatisfied there, or still in
search of the promised land, the Reverend John
Youngs, who had been in Salem, went to New
Haveu and there, with the sanction of Governor
Eaton, organized his church. Eaton, acting for
James Farrett, the Earl of Stirling's agent, granted
the pastor and his small band a small piece of land
across the waters of the sound.
Records from the to~vn's beginning until 1651
have been missing many years. The only sources
we have for that shadowy period are the New
Haven and Southampton records plus allusions in
our existing records after that time. However, we
do know that in 1638 a fexv men seeking the precious
turpentine came to the piuey woods of Hashamo-
mack. At least one house, that of Robert Jackson,
was erected there before Mr. Youngs and his fol-
lowers planted their church and town a few miles
west. We know, too, from writings of explorers
such as Bartholomew Gosnold and Adrian Block
that the island was covered with forests and marsh-
es, teeming with wildlife and abundant with fruits.
On this particular peninsula bounded north by the
"north sea" (Sound) and many bays and creeks
on the south, the waters yielded quantities of fish
and shellfish. There were a few cleared meadows
or Indian fields.
What the Indians who had lived here for a
thousand years or more, and their successors the
white men, did not kno~v was that their God had
worked in mysterious ways to create Long Island
for them. Four huge glaciers had come
from the north in turn, stopped here,
deposited soil and rock and retreated.
The last to visit probably receded ouiy
ten thousand years ago. After the first
glacier a tremendous lifting of the land
took place. Marine currents contribut-
ed, as tbey still do, in both the de-
position and the erosiou of land,
changing the shape and size of the
terrain. More of the island lms been
eroded into the sea than now remains.
The glaciers melting noxv, it is said, are raising the
North Atlantic sea level about a quarter of an inch
a 3'ear on our shores. \Vhat then is the future of
Long Island? "Wet", the wag will say. To cheer
ns is the thought that such a plight is remote.
Southolders today can be fairly certain that their
grandchildren to several generations will be able
to sail around and not over Shelter Island, view
tile shore of Connect/cut from a Sound bluff, and
maybe even walk between the Sound and Mill
Creek on dry land with a low tide.
No one knows exactly who were the men who
came with Mr. Youngs that first year or arrived
very soon afterwards. There is no controverting
that the town was settled. The street was laid out,
lots were granted for homes and tnore people moved
in and multiplied. It seems to have been the custom
of all eastern Long Island settlers to have their
dwellings close together in the European manner.
[81
Frobably this was for both defense and
sociability. The time and trouble in
getting back and forth to church and
town meeting also had to be consider-
ed. All travel away from the short
village street had to be by boat or by
foot. Before the highways were laid
out the thick woods prevented wagons
from passing.
In early years the church and the
town were one. To live in the town
and vote a man had to be a member of the church.
Laws governing the community were strict and
well enforced, yet to some extent they were more
liberal than those of their neighbors in Connecticut
and Masschusetts. When Jeremiah Vail was lured
from East Hampton because the town needed a
new blacksmith he balked at joining the church.
From that time on one could be a freeman (voter)
nnder a half-way covenant.
Little has come down to us regarding the Cot-
chang Indians who preceded us in Southold. As
one of the twelve or thirteen groups of the island's
natives they were of Algonkian stock. It has been
estimated that altogether there were only 6S00
Indians on the entire island at tbe coming' of the
Dutch to the west end. The Corehaug, not numer-
ous, lived in scattered villages along the north fork.
Our records mention them but seldom. From this
lack it would seem that affairs between them and
the settlers were peaceable if not friendly. This
does not follow the pattern in New England nor
at Southampton, where there were many squabbles
and an occasional murder. The Dutch had their
own problems in New Amsterdam. A fexv massacres
brought the renowned Captain John Underhill from
Stamford to help the Dutch subdue the tribes whom
they used so badly. In 1654 Underhill was living
in Southold, where he married a xvoman from
Flushing as his second xvlfe. A few years later
found him at Locust Valley xvhere he spent the
remainder of his days.
Fences were a necessity in those early days. Very
early a "general fence" ran from the north sea to
a point on Stirling Creek, behind which were kept
the cattle and swine of many men. There these
rambled and fed as they wished, safely bordered
on three sides by waters of the Sound, Plum Gut
and Gardiner's and Peconic Bays. Earumrks were
used to differentiate the owners. Each man had to
record his mark with the town clerk. Many pages
are given to depositions against .[ohn Budd for
alledgedly taking hogs not his. The fences, when
intact, kept the corn and other tasty crops in the
[91
mother village from being ravaged.
Later, as hlghxvays were laid out to
the eastern and western areas and
travel by horse and wagon became
common, gates were provided where-
ever the road crossed a fence. Woe
to the man who left one unlatched!
Ever)' year several fence viewers
were elected at town meetings. They
~-- had to see that all fences were kept
underrepair. These men were as
important to the economy and to the general
well-being of the town as the constable and
overseers of highways and of the poor. All of
these officers were also chosen at town meetings.
Every male adult had to attend town meeting or
be fined. This may have been one reason that town
meeting days were festive occasions. The men all
had to go. so why not have some fun too? The
sketchy records taken on those days and the often
almost illegible handwriting would seem to attest
that even the clerk had a bit too much of that
common beverage, rum.
The years went by and trade with New England
and the Barbadoes increased. Flax became the most
important crop. The poor were farmed out to whom-
ever would take them, expenses being paid by the
town. Orphans, no matter how young, were inden-
tured until the age of twenty-one. At this time the
master agreed to give them the clothes they were
wearing, one good suit for the sahbath and, in some
instances, a Bible. There is a case on our books
of a one year old infant being indentured. The town
promised to pay for its support until the age of
six, at which time he would be able to work for
his master.
The houses reflected the character and culture of
the people. Most were story and a half with frames
of heavy hand-hewn oak timbers covered by hand-
rived clapboard siding. Roofs were steeply pitched
against rain, snow and wind. Only a few windows
were used as glass had to be imported. The chimney
was placed centrally to thus serve several fireplaces.
Furnishings were scarce. Comforts belonged only to
the well-to-do. Only a few homes of the earliest era
remain in Southold today. Many of the oldest con-
tain frames or wings built in the seventeenth cen-
tury. The Old House at Cutchogue has been called
one of the finest examples of English domestic
origin in the country. This two story and attic
house, built in 1649 at the end of the village street
in Southold, was moved a few years later to Cut-
chogue. It was restored in 1940 in time for the
Tercentenary celebration and is now a museum.
Every early inhabitant had his share of each of
the kinds of land needed to maintain life. A share
of the "Old Field" headed the list. This was a
fertile plain on the bay about a mile east of the
village. Here in an allocated area each man grew
the grains and vegetables for his table. He also had
a woodlot near the north sea. From this be cut the
timber for his buildings and the wood for his fire-
places. Without the latter he and his family would
soon starve or freeze. He had salt meadow, too.
This was needed as fodder for his live stock. His
share of this was either at Calves Neck, south of
the ¥illage street or at Cutchogue or Oysterponds
Lower Neck (Orient). As the town increased in
population there was much juggling, buying and
selling. The closer to home one could have all
ones lots the more convenient in time and effort.
The first boundaries of the town were frmn Mill
Creek to the Fresh Meadows at Cutchogue. Soon
this area was not big enough to meet the needs
of an exploding population. More lands were pur-
chased from the Indians. In 1649 land west of the
old line, including present day Mattituck and
Riverhead. came under town coutrol. Still later,
presumably in 1654, the eastern lands were extend-
ed to "the utmost poynt of land agst Plum Gutt".
There is a 1661 record of the division of lands in
all the new purchases. The Occabauk (Riverhead)
dividend reached from the canoe place at Mattituck
to the Wading River.
Igew Haven Colony, under whose jurisdiction
lived Southold, Stamford and a few other towns,
merged with Connecticut in 1662. This did not
please our eastern towns, but the connection was
for only two years. Then Governor Nicholls of New
York asserted the Duke of York's claim to all the
island. This displeased Southold and her neighbors
even more, especially when petty taxes and tyran-
nies were imposed. There was no close relationship
with New York as there had always been with New
England, ~vhere ties of blood and trade lay. In 1676
the town was forced to obtain a patent from the
then governor, Edmund Andross. In this the bound-
aries of Southold. from the Wading RiYer to and
including Plum Island, are specifically stated.
During ~he French and Indian War many local
men went off to battle. The period after this and
until the Revolution was a trying one. Although a
religious movement, "The Great Awakening", was
stirring in almost every corner of the colonies there
was greater and greater political unrest. The first
hint of war with England brought an especial anxiety
to the people of Long Island. This was one of the
most vulnerable areas of America, and perhaps the
most important to both ~ ~ (' -
sides. Militia companies ~,'
were formed. War came.
The battle of Long
Island was fought and
lost. A great evacuation
to Connecticut began.
Few today realize the
the suffering that took
place on the island in
those years of war.
There were some loyalist families, it is true, but
in the main the people were xvholeheartedly for the
rebel cause. To continue in their homes with the
hated British occupying the land and taking the
best of their livestock and harvests would be intol-
erable. To give service to the enemy would be near-
ly impossible, for these were the opposite of a
servile people. It has been estimated that one half
of the population of the island became refugees to
Connecticut. The same held true for Southold.
Mather, in his monumental work on the subject,
lists many local families who gathered as much of
their movable possessions as they could and were
ferried to "the main". Many of the men, once over
there, joined the rebel army. Those who remained
on the island had to swear allegiance to the king
and give lip service to the occupying forces while
they watched the havoc wreaked by the demands of
those soldiers. It was to a vastly different Southold
that the emigrees returned after 1783. Even men
who had been prosperous before the war xvere
forced to sell or mortgage their properties. Farms
were overgrown. Houses and outbuildings needed
repairs and money was worse than scarce. It was
a time to try men's souls.
"Gumption" is an old fashioned word but nothing
better expresses that certain quality our forefathers
had aplenty. They looked about for new fields of
endeavor. Soon a new prosperity restored Southold
to its former state of well being, and even beyond.
Menhaden, porpoises and whales became the gold
of the new generations. To search for these, after
the off-shore fishing bad depleted the supply, many
boats were needed. Shipbuilding and the outfitting
of ships became the thriving industries of the east
end. Cold Spring' Harbor, Northport, Sag Harbor
and almost every village in the town of Southold
rang to the tune of adze, hammer and saw. Until
the Civil War Greenport, which as lhe Stifling of
old had blossomed into a good sized hamlet, with
the coming of ship building, became a whaling port
of some prominence.
[10]
The railroad came to the eastern villagas as far lng farms. This help came from Poland and Lithu-
as Greenport in 1844. This brought an influx of new an/a, fron/'it/st before the turn of the century until
people and new blood. Fishing, farming and ship- the first World War. Poor peasants in their home-
ping kept them all busy. Then the Civil War lands, here they worked hard, saved their money,
brought its period of belt tightening when many built up the Roman Catholic churches and finally
of the young men went off to serve the union. Here bought themselves homes and farms. Today every
and there were individuals who sympathized with one of our hamlets has its percentage of Polish
the south. Little East Marion, the Oysterponds names. Intermarriage with this group came slowly
Upper Neck or Rocky Point of old, supposedly but is happening more and more.
had a great number of "secesh" families. In this Emigrations took place too. As the settlement
they reflected the founding fathers spirit of inde- grew and the founders multiplied, which they did
pendence, at an astonishing rate, the r(arrow confines
In 1730 Southold had lost Shelter Island, long the Southold prove too small. Some young men of the
domain of the Sylvesters, when it became a town second generation and many of the third left and
in its own right. Riverhead left the town in 1792. settled at Capt May, Morristown and Elizabeth,
Very early the two Gull islands and Fisher's had New Jersey and in Orange County, New York.
come under our wing. Thus the new bounds stretch- Today cemeteries there attest to the kinship with
ed from just two or three miles off the Connecticut Southold, many of the names being alike in both
shore at Stonington to a line running north and given and surname. Many of the living citizens in
south beyond the hamlet of Franklinville, today's those areas have names with quite a familiar ring.
Laurel. That small place, incidentally, was famous Would that the missing town records be found!
for many years for its academy of learning. Aside from the light that would undoubtedly be
Other changes have come. Slavery is gone and thrown on both the settlers and the events of that
forgotten. Few seem to know that our Southold time, many other mysteries might be solved. Who
ancestors had slaves. The wealthiest had as many came with Reverend Youngs in 16407 What was
as half a dozen; many a family had one or two. the exact date? How did they live that first winter?
In 1808 under the law of New York all slaves under There was hardly time to erect any but the crudest
65 xvere to be freed. Our records note many manu- homes. Were the "old sellers" at lower Oyster-
missions. We know little of what became of most ponds storage bins for the Indians or, roofed, did
of the newly freed people, they serve as shelters for the Norse many years
Southold's partial geographic estrangement great- before? Or were they only temporary dwellings for
ly contributed to the cause of its unique quality, men from Southold while they hunted or gathered
the "alikeness" of its people in character and in fruit? Who built the "tobacco barns" mentioned
name. A roster of men who lived here in the first very early before anyone was supposed to have
quarter century (until 1665) contains many of the permanent homes down there in Oysterponds? How
surnames found here today. The proportion is much deeper was the town creek and Southold Bay?
amazing..4, few of the names died out through lack Historians have stated that they were deep enough
of sons; some moved away and succeeded in pro- to admit very large craft. Hoxv large were the trees
ducing a long male line. Many have descendants in of those virgin forests ? Modern man and his machin-
female lines only. There is little doubt but that this cry have changed the face of much of our land.
small township leads the country in the age and Would our forefathers recognize it?
thickness of its blood. Fifty-three men were living here, by 1654. Let us
The amount of intermarriage must have been pay tribute to the memory of those hardy pioneers
and their families.
eugenically correct, for the people are hardy and
long-lived. There was a large transfusion with the
immigration of many families from 1730 until 1800.
At first predominantly English with some Welsh,
Scots, Dutch and French Hugenot stock, some of t~
the old families married the Irish and German
newcomers. With the Irish, Roman Catholicism was
minor role in the religions society. Then came the
latest and most "different" immigration. Many more
hands were needed to work the larger and flourish-
[11]
SOUTHOLD AND THE SEA
By BILLIE CLARKE
~"Summer of History" is being made con-
stantly, before and after the season along
the only salt water section of the Empire
State, especially along Southold's 53 miles of Sound
shore front, and 62 miles of inland water and tidal
creeks.
In a graphic way this island is often referred to
as a giant whale in shape, 120 miles long, with its
head at the west end and the two flukes of its tail
making up Orient and Montauk. At the center run-
ning east to west, is what geologists have termed
the backbone. This includes plateaus up to 100 feet
high in descending patterns, which are the outwash
of our glacial plains. In fact, our north shore granite
boulders indicate primitive formation. Fossils, min-
eral production and the very general curvature of
each shore denote that marine currents literally
cut this island away from the mainland, now twelve
miles north of us.
Whether fact or "romantic fiction"
the original thirteen Englishmen with
their families, cattle, tools and a few
possessions must have come from New
Haven across the "north sea" by sloop
or oared barge. With early records lost,
these first settlers could well have
come ashore at what is now known
as Founders' Landing in Southold.
These settlers were surely inspired
by the many tools and ways of the
Indians that they found here. Such items as a shell
fish hook, a stone sinker for fish nets and a hoe
made from a large clam shell, were successful aids
in maintaining one's livelihood.
Long Island Indians were believed to have in-
vented the money, or wampun, used eventually all
over the spreading settlements where trade de-
manded a medium of exchange. In the summer the
men gathered clam shells or quahog Or conch or
periwinkle which their women first fashioned into
a bar or octagonal strip. This was rounded, sawed
and drilled to become a bead, then polished by
rubbing on a large stone. These beads were often
strung on hemp or sinew into many strings and
then woven into a patterned belt. The black, or
dark blue was the most valuable and considered
to be their gold, while the white wampum was
treated as their silver. Conscious of their closeness
to the water and its effect on their daily life, these
Indians often spoke of their homeland here as
Sewan-hacky (land of the shells) or Meht-anew-ack
(earshell country).
Varied types of stone anchors found near these
shores, indicate the passing of Dutch, Portugese,
Spanish and English vessels in these waters prior
to the arca's settlement.
Before the pioneers arrived, the Indians had
built huts similar to wigwams on the beaches for
lookouts for whales, which they then probably
went out to catch in their hand-hewn narrow
canoes.
Some settlers, initiated in the art of boat building,
continued to carry on this important and necessary
skill. Before roads were built, small boats were
the only means of communication and transport
between communities. Locally built xvhaling boats
were later found useful during the Revolutionary
War. Of particular note are the epl-
~.~ sodes when patriotic "whale-boat men"
~)~.~q. made many raids on the British from
across the Sound. Once, crossing our
land and dragging their boats, they
crossed the bay and marauded Sag
Harbor, returning safely. A site marker
is located at Town Beach on the North
Road telling of an outstandingly sue-
_~_.,_ . cessful raid like this made by 170 men.
Night traffic on the Sound during
1776, carrying Southold settlers fleeing
from the occupying British, is well recorded in old
manifests. Later notes of these families' safe return
were made with gratification. During this period
Col. George Washington, after crossing the Sound
with his six horses and men en route to Virginia,
stopped at Southold.
With the abundance of firewood and fish and
the need for agricultural produce, ~vharfs and ware-
house docks sprang up. Very early Town Creek was
busy with long boats and vessels of cargo making
their way to this area where lived ship builders,
mariners and captains. A roadside marker on
Youngs Avenue beside the To~vn Creek marks this
site.
l~iuch produce, flax, horses and grain went to
New York City's markets via boat. Necessarily,
tide water mills located at headwaters on streams
emptying into the Bay or Sound were constructed
for grinding grains. The earliest in the vicinity
[12]
were in Hashamomack. It is interest-
ing to note that the windmill is on
the coat-of-arms of the City of New
York.
The traveler in these parts today is
most happy to catch sight of a wind-
mill. It recalls the days of corn-meal
hasty pudding, with everything in the
batter ground between stones. We
owe, indirectly perhaps, thanks to
those of our Puritan ancestors who lived in Hol-
land, for their experiences with the windmill.
The Sylvester Manor mill on Shelter Island (re-
placing an earlier one) was built in Southold by
Nathaniel Dominy. It was then moved to the
Shelter Island manor by barge and ox team in 1795.
The mill on Gardiner's Island was painted white
and served as a landmark for sailing craft. The Red
Mill of Riverhead built by Isaac Sxvezey, became
a storehouse when the nearby pond went dry.
Other mills were at Mill Creek, Mill Hill, Hog
Neck (now Bay View) and Town Harbor. At the
intersection of the North Road, Peconic Lane and
Mill Road in Peconic, stands a roadside marker
indicating the old mill cartway to Goldsmith Inlet
MiI1 which stood at the inlet near the Sound. This
type mill was reputed to be one of Nexv York's
largest.
Of course, xvith the tilling of the land came the
mill, ami with the mill came the boat, and with the
boat came the next romantic structure, the light-
house. We still have the lighthouse and will prob-
ably always need it, although the lighthouse keeper
in most instances bas been replaced by an imper-
sonal timing device.
Horton's Point Light, on the Sound bluffs at
Southold, is believed to have been commissioned
by George Washington while he was president. In
1939 the Lighthouse Service became part of the
U. S. Coast Guard lighthouse system on the Sound.
In and around this North Fork area are situated
the following lighthouses: North Dumping, built
in 1848; Race Rock, 1878; Little Gull Island, 90
feet high and built in 1806; Plum Island; Orient
Point, 64 feet high: Old Field Point; Lloyd Har-
bor; Sand's Point; Horton's Point, 1857 and Strat-
ford Shoals beacon that is in the middle of the
Sound.
The last old Life Saving Station, one of many
strung out along the shores for rescued seafarers
from the many shipwrecks and other coastal trade
disasters, is now the house at the north end
Sunset Lane in Orient. This is a reminder of our
famous shipping days. Southold Wharf,
built around 1856 and later named
Founders' Landing, was a busy spot
with steamers calling on their way to
New England, and also stopping at
Greenport and Sag Harbor. The last
New York to New London run ~vas
- -. made by the Shinnecock in the 1930's.
· ---'-- ------ Other boats were the W. W. Coit, the
S. S. Shelter Island and the S. S.
Montauk.
Along with the increase in trade, the flow of
money and the glamour of the steamboat came the
excitement of more gracious living. Orient still
boasts houses with woodwork most beautifully
carved in the Greek manner by a highly skilled
local carpenter named Amon Tabor, xvho used
themes of fish and shellfish and often built kitchens
with scuppers, like a ship.
The purest of ice, cut from local lakes and ponds,
fed by running brooks and springs, was delivered
by horse and wagon. Advertisements proclaimed
that natural ice made from pure water gave off
more cold air, thus keeping the refrigerator at a
lower temperature.
Greenport's Inns competed on even terms with
the more notable, exclusive and fantastic hotels on
the South Shore. Almost surrounded by ~vater as
it is, fishermen and yachtsmen were naturally at-
tracted. Facilities for building, repairing and out-
fitting boats of all kinds were adjacent. The oldest
of Greenport's more famous hostelries were the
Clarke House and the Booth House. Other well
known Inns were the Greenport House, Wyandank,
Peconic House and the Burr House.
A sea captain built the Clarke House which
entertained many noted persons in its time. The
old register bears the signatures of John Quincy
Adams, General Winfield Scott, Fenimore Cooper,
Walt Whitman, General Stewart L. 'Woodford,
Admiral Winfield Scott Schley, Admiral Thomas
Hutchins, Admiral George Dewey, Captain Andrew
Sharp and Captain C. H. McClellan. For 93 years
a legend over the mantel read "Shall I not take
my peace in Mine Inn".
Early marine activity resulted in the building,
in 1672, of the Orient Point Inn, on what is now
the end of Route 25. Some of its original stone
cellar floor and heavy beams still serve its occu-
pants. British troops were garrisoned here during
the Revolution, and fmnous visitors included Daniel
Webster, Washington Irving, President Grover
Cleveland. James Fenimore Cooper lived bere
while he wrote of Orient in "The Sea Lions".
[13]
NAUTICAL
1841 . T
HOLLAND SUBMARINE
1900
z~o 4R~OR
[ 14]
Probably the majority of those who lost their also has a high oll content. This fish is a member
lives in our early times died at sea. So testifies the of the herring: iamily. It is a migratory surface fish,
old bur/al grounds where many of the stones are collecting in schools. About ten bunker boats leave
inscribed in memory of sons and brothers lost on Greenport at a time and are usually gone five days.
the long fishing and whaling voyages of the time. The boat loads of netted fish are unloaded at far-
Perhaps as a her/rage from these early pioneers, toties which extract the oil and produce dried
and to our good /ortune, we still carry on the meal. As long ago as 1878 statistics show that
traditions of faming and fishing. These are our there were 56 factories; 279 sailing vessels; 64
leading industries today. Revenue from area steamers and 3,337 men employed in this business.
waters comes from clams, scallops and oysters, The local Chambers of Commerce proclaim that
now as yesterday. When Indian refuse pits are by our bottom fishing for flounder, porgies, blacks
chance uncovered, the contents testify to the great and sea bass is unequaled anywhere. The taking
fishing skills of the early habitants, of Peconic Bay weakfish on light tackle is legend-
New Suffolk, as well as Greenport, participated ary. Plum Gut and the Fishers Island Race are
in equipping and manning many whaling vessels known to be the only spots in the entire world,
in the middle 19th century. At that time two kinds beside the distant Azores, where the tackle-smash-
of whale were of commercial importance: the "fin- ing bluefish regularly exceed fifteen pounds. Light
back" with a pointed shallow head and the "right" tackle enthusiasts are enjoying the recent advent
with a deep arched head. The latter yielded more of the striper along the Sound shore.
oil and had the best bone. Porpoises were also
With the end of whaling and the coming of
caught in great numbers in a large seine. From
these blubber was recovered and leather was made steam the sea horizon has drastically changed.
Today there are some 180,000 registered boats
in the late 18th century.
New Suffolk was the scene, from 1899 to 1904, anchored off Long Island, and every year it in-
of the development and testing of the USS Holland, creases by about 30,000. About 150 of the largest
the first practical submarine to be purchased and sailing yachts cruise these waters during a season.
commissioned by the lJ. S. Navy. A submerged Just as the sea has determined the very shape of
run with Clara Barton on board was one of its this island, so it has impinged upon the life of
special bizarre accomplishments. A scale model of everyone who ever lived here. It brought the early
this historic vessel, made by Floyd D. Houston, pioneers and helped feed them after they arrived.
may be seen in the Whitaker Historical Collection As a means of communication and transportation
in the Southold Free Library. it was at one time a necessity to all, the life work
The Peconlc Bay scallop is widely proclaimed as and support of many and a matter of life or death
the best of all scallops. As such it commands a to some. Today travel on these waters has become
premium price in the market place. The first area principally a matter of sport or recreation. So, too,
on Pecouic Bay to open scallop beds was New with fishing, although /ts commercial importance
Suffolk. has not decreased and may even increase as our
When the early settlers first saw the Indians population grows.
putting fish on their fields they probably thought The sea is said to have been the original source
it was to placate some heathen gods. Ho~vever, of all life. Down the millenia, and including the
they soon discovered the fertilizing value of the last 325 years, it has not failed to support the body,
idea and up until very recent times fish have been inspire the mind and exalt the soul of all those
netted in the bays and spread on the fields/or this who have been fortunate enough to live in Southold
purpose. Iqow fish for fertilizer is a big industry, Town, an area so generously endowed xvlth ready
menhaden being the most sought variety since it access to its waters.
[ 15]
SOME HISTORIC SITES AND LANDMARKS
LAUREL
This is the first communi~ of Southold Town when approaching on Route 25 from
the west.
Formerly called Frnnklinville, the Academy of that name founded about 1831, was
located here.
Laurcl fronts on Great' Peconic Bay and includes Laurel Lake.
MATTITUCK
Mattituck is just east of Laurel and extends from Sound to Bay. In includes the only
Long Island harbor on the Sound east of Port Jefferson. Among its many points of interest
ere: .
Presbyterian Church org~uiTed in 1715, on Main Stxeet.
Site of old Grist M/Il on Mattituck Inlet, erected about 1820.
North Fork Theater, occupying a former church on Sound Avenue.
Octagon House, on Main Street, built in 1856 and long housing a general store.
Wolf Pit Lake, on North Road, where marauding wolves were trapped.
CUTCHOGUE
The original name of this town, just east of Mattltuclg was Corchaug. It includes
Little Hog Neck, where once all .the community hogs were fenced in and allowed to run wild
(all distinctively ear-marked by their owners). It is now the fine residental section of Nassau
Point.
Many of the points of historic interest are described in "On and Around the Village
Green" published by the Cutchogue-New Suffolk Historical Council. Some of them are:
The Village Green, where are located the Old House, dating from 1649 and now a
National Historic Monument; the School House built in 1847; the Public Library, now housed
in a former church; and the old William Wickham House.
The Fleet-Goldsmith-Kendrick House, on Hew Suffolk Road is included in the Library
of Congress' Historic American Building Survey.
[ 16]
NEW SUFFOLK
Robins
New Suffolk is on a pen~n.~tla in Great Peconic Bay and includes privately oWned
Island_ At one time a regular schedule of boats te New York City terminated here.
A marker at the end of Main Street indicates the site of the Holland Torpedo Boat
Station where, in 1900, the first submarine purchased by the U. S. Navy was tested.
PECONIC
Between Goldsmith Inlet on the Sound, the site of a long used Grist 1VIill blown
doWn in the storm of 1898, and Indian Neck on Little Peconic Bay are included many acres
where the famous Long Island potatoes grow.
Many of the old houses along the Main Road date from pre-Revolutionary times.
For detailed description see "Guide to Historic Markers" published by the Southold Hister-
teal Society. Some of them are:
Samuel Corwin House, pre-Revo, lutionary
Lieut. Moses Case House, about 1747
The Old Castle, about 1724
Cot. Benjamin Case House, pre-1815 (Cutchogue's first post office)
SOUTHOLD
Founders' Landing in Southold, named for Southwold, East Suffolk, England, is where
the first settlers arrived in 1640. Historic Site Markers and many old houses are described
and located in "Guide to Historic Markers" published by the Southold Historical Society.
Some of them are:
Old First Church, founded in 1640; present building
Southold ToWn Burying Ground and "God's Acre",
adjoins the church.
built in 1803. On Main Street.
as the oldest part is called,
llistorical Museum including "Turn-of-the-Century" House; eighteenth century Old
Pine Neck Barn; Buttery and Tool House, all containing many rare exhibits of old furnish-
ings, clothing, toys, carriages, tools, farm equipment, etc.
[17]
GREENPORT
Formerly called Stifling, this was in 1844 the rail head of the first Long Island
Rail Road and the main raft-steamboat route between New York and Boston.
Always geared to the sea Greenport has witnessed the building of many ships in its
yards, from whaling ships to submarine chasers. Its streets are still lined with fine examples
of old whaling captains' homes with their widows walks.
The old blacksmith shop behind Mitchell's Restaurant and the many docks for
cruisers and sail boats are favorite motifs for artists.
The ferry for SheIter Island and the South Shore leaves from its slip by the Raft Road
Station.
EAST MARION
This small village between Greenport and Orient extends from Rocky Point on the
Sound to Marion Lake and Orient Harbor. Its earlier names were Oysterponds Upper Neck
and Rocky Point. It is believed it was presently named after General Francis Marion, the
"Swamp Fox" of Revolutionary War fame. Its Post Office on the Main Road is possibly the
first built in the United States as a Veteran's Memorial.
The Baptist Church is at the head of Marion Lake and is opposite one of the many
beautiful doorways found in the neighborhood that were designed and built by Amon Tabor.
ORIENT
Fomerly called Oysterponds this village extends from the East Marion causeway
to Orient Point.
On Village Lane are several pre-Revolutionary houses, also:
Village House, Old School House and Hallock House, a marine museum, all owned
by the Oysterponds Historical Society.
The Orange Webb House built about 1740, is across the street.
The Old Mu/ford House on the main road to Orient Point dates from 1666 and is
one of the oldest in Southold Town.
At Orient Point is the entrance to Orient Beach State Park. The s~,mmer ferry to
New London and the Government ferry to the Iff. S. Department of Agriculture Station on
Plum Island both leave from Orient Point.
FISHERS ISLAND
This most remote part of Southold Town can only be reached by airplane, private
boat or ferry from Mew London. Beside being an ideal vacation spot there are many points
of interest, such as:
Old Brick Quarry
The Old Brick House
The Old Vffinthrop House, near East Point
[15]
OLD HOMES
DOOKWAY
Fleet_Goldsmith-Iicndrlck
House
THE OLD CASTLE
Peconic
DOoRW-Ay
"The Old Castle"
DllqlN G goOl~
yqebb House
LIVING ROoM
Webb ~OUse ~o~.A~o~O
~xot~,e~omo [ 19 ]
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
The 325th Anniversary Committee w~hes to acknowledge with grateful appreciation
the generous support of the following organizations and individuals who have cont~buted
to the success of this "Summer of History".
PATRONS
Arcade Department Store
Averette Service Station
Miss Mildred Bainbridge
Mr. Earle W. Baker
Mr. and Mrs. William M. Beebe
Blaschaek Rest Home
Mr. Clement W. Booth
George Braun Oyster Co., Inc.
Broadwater Cove Association
A. Halsey Brown, Inc.
Burt's Coal, Inc.
Mr. and Mrs. Richard il. Cron
Mr. Louis M. Demarest
Eastern L. I. Broadcasters, Inc.
Mr. Fred BI. Faulkner
Mr. and Mrs. Robert P. Fisher
Mr. and Mrs. Henry L. Fleet
Fleet Lumber, Inc.
Mr. Edward W. Fox
Goldin Furniture Co.
Goldsmith & Tutb/ll
W. T. Grant Company
The Great A & P Tea Co., Inc.
Greenport Fire Department
Greenport-Southold Chamber of Commerce
Griswold-Terry-Glover Post No. 803
S. B. Horton Co., Inc.
Island Broadcasting System, Inc. (WRIV)
Island's End Golf & Country Club, Inc.
The Kimogener Point Co.
Mr. Floyd F. King, Jr.
Mr. and 1VIrs. Irving Latham
1Vir. W. Harry Lister
Little Yankee Shop
L. I. Cablevision Corp.
R. A. McCallum, Inc.
Mc/Vfaun-Price Agency
Mitchell's Restaurant
Mr. and Mrs. John W. Montgomery
Mr. and Mrs. Arthur S. Moore
Mr. Edward Nidds
The North Fork Bank and Trust Company
Oyster Ponds Chemical Co.
Mr. B. Aborn Peckman
Ralph T. Preston, Inc.
S. T. Preston & Son, Inc.
Mr. Frederic P. Rich
Mr. and Mrs. Albert W. Richmond
Richter Home Improvement Co.
iVir. Theodore Rob/off
Salon de Goubeaud
South Ferry, Inc.
Southold Dodge
Southold Hardware
Southold Liquor Store
Southold-Peconic Civic Association, Inc.
Southotd Rebecca Lodge, No. 208
Southold Savings Bank
Southold Town Republican Club
Southold Town Republican County Comm.
Mr. and Mrs. I. P. Terry
Mrs. Eugenia L. Teves
Mr. and Mrs. Preston Tuthill
ULrich Marine
Vail Bros., Inc.
Valley National Bank of L. I.
C. F. Van Duzer Gas Service, Inc.
Otto Van Tuyl and Son
V. F. W. Post No. 9205
The Wedgwood Shop
Woodhollow Properties, Inc.
[20]
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
DONORS
In Memory of Ann Hallock Currie-Bell
Anonymous
Mr. and Mrs. Jerome A. Appelquest
Mrs. Madolin F. Barteau
Miss W~n~ed Billard
Dr. and Mrs. William C. Brons
Mr. and Mrs. R. L. Brickey
Mrs. Miriam Carver
Mr. and Mrs. Harry G. Csse
Mrs. Helen Case
Mrs. Ruth B. Case
Billie Clarke Gallery
Cutchogue Chamber of Commerce
Mr. William J. Dalton
Mrs. S~anley W. England
Mr. Arthur H. Fagan
Mrs. Elizabeth Fensch-Olsen
Mr. Paul E. J. Gerhold
Mr. and Mrs. Corwin C. Grathwohl
Greenport Theatre
Mr. Melvin D. Greer
1~. Bernard Greiner
Mr. Michael M. Hamway
Mr. C. Hem, Jr.
Mr. Gilbert V. Horton
Hulse's Service Station
Mr. and Mrs. Frank James
Mr. and Mrs. Sven B. Jensen
Mr. Mortimer DeMott Kelly
Mm. Clarence H. Ketcham
Mr. J. T. Kirkup
Mr. and Mrs. Arthur J. Elein
Mr. W. B. Lockwood
lVir. Wal~er Luce
tV[r. and M_rs. Howard C. 1VJCiller
iVf_r. William Miller
1Vir. and iVfrs. Charles W. Morgan
i~r. Paul G. O'Dea
lVirs. Clara Onody
Peconic 'Lodge l~lo. 349, F. & A. ]~.
1Vir. John Pelkofsky
1Virs. I. H. Reeve
In Memory of Norman F. Reeve
Claus H. Robohm, M.D.
1Vir. and iVirs. P. M. Rom
Mr. Walter F. Rowland
Seafood Barge
lVIr. and Mrs. John C. Seifer~h
Russell P. Silleck Agency
Mr. Irving Stevens
Burnett F. Tuthill
Van's Hardware
1VIr. and Mrs. John H. Wehlau
lVirs. Alice B. Wells
Elizabeth F. Whelan
Ann Wiegand