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Home My WebLink AboutWE-2 o _: /o , - BUILDING-STRUCTURE INVENTORY FORM FOR OFFICE USE ONLY ' JIYISION FOR HISTORIC PRESERVATION UNIQUE SITE NO. WE-2 QUAD NEW YORK STATE PARKS AND RECREATION SERIES ALBANY, NEW YORK (515) 474-0479 NEG. NO YOUR NAME: Town of Southold/SPLIA DATE: March 1988 Town Hall, Main Rd. YOUR ADDRESS: Southold, LI NY 11971 TELEPHONE: 516 765 1892 ORGANIZATION (if any):_ Southold Town Community Development Office IDENTIFICATION I. BUILDING NAME(S): Race Rock Light House 2. COUNTY: Suffolk TOWNICITY: Southold VILLAGE: Fishers Island 3. STREET LOCATION: Off SW end of Fishers Island, in "The Race" . 4. OWNERSHIP: a. public ❑ b. private ❑ 5. PRL-,.Sl'-'NT OWNER: U.S. Coast Guard ADDRESS: 6. USE: Original: light house Present: light house (vacant) 7. ACCESSIBILITY TO PUBLIC: Exterior visible from public road: Yes L1No Q Interior accessible: Explain vacant and secured. DESCRIPTION 5. BUiLIANG a. clapboard ❑ b. stone KI c. brick ❑ d. board and batten ❑ MATERIAL: e. cobblestone ❑ f. shingles ❑ g. stucco ❑ other: 'k STRUCTURAL a. wood frame with interlocking joints ❑ SYSTEM! b. wood frame with light members ❑ (il' known) c. masonry load bearing walls El d. metal (explain) e, other cement/concrete IU. CONDITION: a. excellent ❑ b. good ❑ c. fair 13 d_ deteriorated ❑ 11. INTEGRITY: a. original site E� b. moved ❑ if so,when" c. list major alterations and dates (if known): Automated 1979. 12. PIIOTO: U.S. Coast Gdard photo. 13- MAP: Hagstrom, Suffolk County Atlas, 19$3. See attached. s HP-1 WE-2 r la. THREATS TO BUILDING: a.none known ❑ b.zoning❑ c. roads ❑ d. developers Q e. deterioration ® , f. other: vandalism 15. RELATED OUTBUILDINGS AND PROPERTY: a. barn❑ b. carriage house ❑ c. garage ❑ d. privy ❑ e. shed ❑ f. greenhouse ❑ g. shop ❑ h. gardens ❑ i. landscape features: j. other: granite pier I1,. SURROUNDINGS OF THE. BUILDING (check more than one if necessary): a.open land ❑ b. woodland ❑ c. scattered buildings ❑ d.densely built-up ❑ e. commercial ❑ f. industrial ❑ g. residential ❑ h.other: water 17. 1NTFRRELATI0NSHIP OF BUILDING AND SURROUNDINGS: (Indicate if building or structure is in an historic district) Located SW of Race Pt. , the SW corner of the west end of Fishers Island, in "The Race", a tidal rip between Long Island Sound and Block Island Sound. On a rock bed over Race Rock. 18. OTHER NOTABLE FEATURES OF BUILDING AND SITE (including interior features if known): 1r2 story, 3 bay, center entrance plan, gable roof, granite dwelling with end chimneys. Prominent 2 story, gable roof, projecting entrance element. Attached, 3 story, granite tower on opposite facade with lantern and encircling gallery deck. Dwelling and tower on circular, stone platform. SIGNIFICANCE The light is 67 ft. above the water. 19. DATE OF INITIAL CONSTRUCTION: 1878 ARCHITECT:_ U.S. Light H use Board BUILDER: Francis Hopkinson Smith (engineer) , Capt. Thomas Scott construction foreman) . 20. HISTORICAL AND ARCHITECTURAL IMPORTANCE: "Called a "Gothic Whimsey", this light house is unusual in its design, appearing to be a delightful miniature Victorian mansion. It was determined to be elligible for the National Register of Historic Places on 3/22/73. rthGC�-eig++ed ntlrn1' ,f% M For historical significance see attached copies of Harlan Hamilton work Lights and Legends . 'I. SOURCES: Preservation Notes, SPLIA, Spring/Summer 1985, pp. 6-7. Preservation Notes, SPLIA, Fall/Winter 1980, p. 10. Light List, U.S. Coast Guard, Vol. 1, 1983, entry # 903. Fishers Island, N.Y. , by Henry L. Ferguson, 1925, p. 95. !_H \IF Fishers Island, Its History and Development, by F.E. Hine, 1907, p. 201 . Lights and Legends . . . , by Harlan Hamilton, 1987, pp. 198-207. Form prepared by 7urt Kahofer, research assistant. 7 2 i r 4 r; NFW'ONAOM Co. SUFfOLlf CO.'�'�-•~�-•�-•-.�...—�.. I .i- NORTH PUnPUM$ JE SOUTH UUHPLIH6 ° F1 SHEB S FLAT HUMMOCK -•'.a North BLEs - Cte Aliaf '.• _ CHOCOM r� •'.}� ,� I _ - ,\ COVE a �i Xaa fnE J� 1 um F ►rte 1 - �', �w ti * r e-�n:,�•' !,�'�1 Uri �..� i`.d ROS.Fb-t B L 0 ( C� 'm .�+�.yr RIICE POCK 'I •. r 4 CC� C� r r ` E _ L 50 52 53 E Hagstrom, Suffolk County Atlas , 1983 . 1 I li4+a t SUB PLAN OF �' •��/M[1N 4�rWNET RACE POINT Is • ,dyes About 81Efiles h^4nt PlcLrre. Gcori cL . �` rumor 1; QVO ri Mule/�� sf®,•y R i "L. CULL Yrir,etr VY llrsiAHrarzs• L)CHT `, 1•,'Inar. 1 - '1 RACE ROCK Ir PIH .,•1, LIGHT SOUTH � BEACH '�-i�i• ` MT PROSPECT 1sP�g aGN �tt[iCl"IICiyS'� Villages and Alphabetical List �f Towns in w Acabonack, East Hampton. East Marlon,Southold. Hoganock, SouthalnAssociation. Mineola Park, North Hemgstead, Scutt]C Acquibogne,Riverhead. Eset Moriches, Brook Haven. Holbrook, Brook haven. Montauk Point, East Hampton.ampton,�fHampto Albertson,North Hempatsad. East Neck, Huntington. Hollis, Jamaica. Allen's Point, Oyster Bay. East Northport, Huntington. Hollis Heights,Jamaica. Moriches, Brook Haven, 8earir Amagansett, East Hampton. East Norwich,Oyster Bay, Hollis Park,Jamaica. Morris Lark,Jamaica. Seidel Amityville,Babylon. East Rockaway, Hempstead. Holliswood,Jamaica. Mt. Sinal, 11t FlBrooHaven. Shead pt Aqueduct,Jamalea, East Patchogue,Brook Haven. untington, larbor, con, SheltA Murray 11111, Flushing. Sheed town- Artvillage,Southampton. Eastport, Brook Haven. untington Harbor, Huntington. Nassau Heights, Ess Hampton. She11f Arverne-by-the-Sea, Hempstead. East Quogue, Southampton. yatt Heights, Newtown. Nspeag yde Park, North Hempstead. New Cassell, North Hempstead. Shinn Babylon, Babylon. East Setauket, Brook Haven. bland Valley, North Hempstead, New Suffolk,Southold. Smith Baiting Hollow,Riverhead. East Side, East Hampton. i; y Newtown, Newtown. Smith f�VC�e GO . Bay Edge,Jamaica, East Williston,North Hempstead, Indian Head Smithtown. Bayport,Islip. East Williamsburg, Newton. Indian Reservation,Southampton. Newtown Heights, Newtown. 8inith M8 Of T�On Bayshore,Islip. Eaton's Neck, Huntington. Inwood, Hempstead. l�orthuogue, Smithtown. Smith Bayside, Flushing. Echo, Brook Haven. Irma Park, Hempstead. North Beach, Newtown. South H a Bayswater,Hempstead. Edgemere, Hempstead. Islip, Islip. North Country,Brook Haven. (south l Bayview, Southold. Edgewood, Islip. 3amalca, Jamaica. North Country Club, Oyster Bay. South Ba viUe. Oyster Ba Elmhurst, Newtown. Jamaica Heights,Jamaica. North Haven, goutlrampton, South t++ Beydelltowap Oyster day. Elmont, Hampstead. Jamaica Park,Jamaica. North Neck, Past Hampton. South 4a Beechwood,Hempstead. Elwood, Huntington. Jamaica South,Jamaica. Northport, Suntiugtato South North Aea, Southampton. South Belmont Park,Jamaica. Evergreen, Newtown. Jameko,Jamaica. North , Riverhead. South Bellmore,Hempstead. Fair Ground, Huntington. Jamesport, Riverhead. Northville vWoodside Newtown. Spew Bellport,Brook Haven. hair View Point, Southampton. Jericho,East Hampton, Norwood, Hempstead. Sprit Berlin,Newtown. Farmingdale, Oyster Bay. Jericho, Oyster Bay. p ti Bethpage,Oyster Bay. FarmingvUle,Brook Haven. Jerusalem, Hempstead. Noyack, Southampton. St. G Bluepoint, Brook Haven. Far Rockaway, Hempstead. Ketcabonack, Southampton. Oakdale, Islip. St. G. Bohemia, Islip. Fenhurst, Hempstead. Kings Park, Smithtown. Oakville. Southampton. St.Ja Bovrt►ePark, Flushing. Fire Place,East Hampton, Kingstown, Bast Bampton, Oceanside, Hempstead. BL,Je Brentwood,Islip. Fire Place Neck. Brook Haven. Lake Grove, Brook Haven. Oldfield, Brook Haven. l�`+Au} nn. Brentwood Park, Islip. Flaggy Hole,Nast Hampton. Lakeville, North Hempstead. Old Westbury, North Humps lva / Br[dgehampton,Southampton. Flanders, Southampton. Lakewood Settlement, Hempstead, Oregon, Southold. y Oak Brook Haven,'Brook Haven. Floral Park, Hempstead. Lattingtown,oyster Bay. Orient, Southold, ",f t�► Brooklyn Hills,Jamaica. Flower Hill, North Hempstead, Laurel Bill, Newtown, Orient Point,Southold. IV Brooklyn Manor,Jamaica. Forest Park Heights,Newtown, Laurelton,Oyster Bay. Oyster Bay, Oyster Bay. The'a( w 1-411- A - t► r Rwv. Rln/hin¢_ Flnahinw. Lawrence, Hempstead, [)sone Park.Jamaica. D-6, Aay.nn Thon WE Coast • photo circa •80 CHAPTER 33 RACE ROCK LIGHT, The Race, near Fishers Island, NY (1878) Determined to be elligible i'or the Light List No.: 18650 National. register. Location: Latitude 41° 14.6' W 3/22/73 Longitude 72° 2.9' W Height: 67' x� Range: 19 miles, Flashing Red every 10 seconds Horn Lens: [7013-24, 1000 Watt lamp Automated: !November 1978 (Fresnel lens removed) The Challenge Race Rock Lighthouse will stand forever as a monument to the courage and skill of two indomitable men.Francis Hopkinson Smith(1838-1915), its engineer, and Captain Thomas Albertson Scott (1830-1907), his con- struction foreman. They successfully attempted the formidable task of building a lighthouse at a location that others said was impossible.Their engineering challenge was monumental. As we shall see,just establishing basic acceptable working conditions proved difficult,requiring thousands of tons of riprap to secure the work- in-progress from the violent water conditions. These tons of materials were ferried to the site occupying several vessels for weeks at a time dur- ing the construction which was to last for seven years.Storing and handl- ing these materials required the erection of temporary piers, cranes and inclined planes. Masons had to work underwater frequently. And at all times the builders were subject to the whims of nature with her winds, waves and sudden storms. It was not an easy task. We must remember that most lighthouses were built on land with the notable exception of Minot's Ledge Light (1850-1860) at the southern entrance to Boston Harbor, which was also a remarkable engineering feat. Race Rock,in general,is a ledge of some extent,composed of one 12 by 4-ft rock and several smaller spurs of rocks rising above the surface,but it is chiefly submerged at low water. It lies eight miles southeast of New London,Connecticut and 0.6 mile southwest of Fishers Island in Long Is- land Sound. It was not, as Smith and Scott first supposed, one gigantic "bowlder." On the principal spur, Race Rock proper, the least depth at mean low water was three feet,whereas the greatest depth in the 69-ft.cir- cle prepared for the lighthouse foundation, was 13 feet. The mean velocity of the tidal currents at strength through the Race is about 3.5 knots, although at times it is much greater.Nearly always there are strong rips and swirls in the wake of all broken ground in the vicinity, which is similar to the neck of a bottle, through which most of the tidal Lights and Legends . Harlan Hamilton l9b'( 198 -'rti •_ "'r3•,µ'`E i t , k �.,y _'�{1 .�> S-1'.:�y ?4,.R � 4� x ... �rm�ftT+�'4;e#,3 J• } y +,�+' +Z �.:r.7y N'� ir -] 'N�4• ' s ' ri"4 �`*� ` 4 .c r r �' r ^, ra O a fp O C. � 7 IMF ail I el k i F R� - - i . S 1 / Race Rock Light, off Fishers Island, NY +� [ji hts and Le end9 . Harlan Hamilton. 19137 .a �4 ii. water races (hence the name) as it enters and leaves Long Island Sound, so many of the wrecks had occi The rips are unusually strong in heavy weather, especially when a strong fined by Lieutenant George M. j' wind opposes the current, or when the current sets through against a mentioned the accidents at Ra i heavy sea.Thus, it was upon Race Rock proper in from three to 13 feet of much benefit might be water that the lighthouse was to be built.Such was the challenge to Smith and Scott. the navigation in its neighborh+ whichdition to the reef F. Hopkinson Smith was a remarkable man. He was the partner in the and,the dange a srock,Xcalit firm of Smith and Symington which won the contract to build the light. three-fourths of a mile from it, In addition to being an engineer, Smith was a good painter and writer. ie d one of Perhaps his best known novel is Caleb West. Master Diver (Boston: i form an accurate estimation F` Houghton Mifflin company, 1898), which tells the story of the construc- cfrom the bearings tient berth to clear all dangers, tion of Race Rock Light and is a personal tribute to his friend, Captain tion therefore is not recommei Scott. His other novels of interest are: The Tides of Barnegat (1906) and Bache's observations apparel Kennedy Square(1911). As a water-color and black-and-white painter, he Race Point was concerned. Et I illustrated his own travel sketches in Spain, the Netherlands, Italy and for a lighthouse to Mexico and his own Charcoals of New and Old Nese York (1912), in this time. It was nott built at l 77rackeray's London (1913) and In Dicken's London (1914). Besides his ar- until a dre u "• ing of the steamer"Atlantic"ii tistic accomplishments, Smith built Quern the government sea wall at Cover- ;�=; back into sharp reltef.Howeve nor's Island,New York and a similar one at Tompkinsville,Staten Island, Board reported, "Various atter New York. He latei constructed the foundation for the Statue of Liberty propriations expended in end in New York Harbor.Earlier,iii 1874 he built the e foundation for vent mark on this Dint. Buoy Penfield p Ree ]d Reef Light, Bridgeport, Connecticut, a until the breaki only remained d Captain - y p in Tom Scott, the Captain Joe of Smith's novel,Caleb West, was preceding 50 years, two differs head of the Scott Wrecking Company until his death.He met F.H.Smith Each was about three inches it accidentally during the 1860s in New London,Connecticut, - c had been carr . r~ and the b ledge. and each came Erie . y e g rids. Smith once describe °' , d Scot , - ta s a bifurcated Board, ted sea of the Lighthouse was a master diver and, as such, did the submarine work on many of the t tion g with the view to erecting a thinlighthouses that Smith built. During his career, he performed many acts season might be required to si of heroism which were recounted in Smith's novel. He received citation feet into the Rock. after citation for his bravery during the building of Race Rock Light, In 1853, $7,000 was appropi since in its early stages much dangerous work had to be done under wat- took the form of a day beacoi er.Scott and Smith returned to the scene of their triumph many years Iat- done along this line, but the q er and were pleased to note that the fine joints in the masonry of the pier revived,the proposed site was and the lighthouse structure were as true as the day they had placed them. appropriated for the station': John Floherty has a good account of Race Rock Light and its builders in arose in obtaining valid titles, f. 1 his book Sentries of the Sea (New York, J.B. Lippincott Company, 1942), the site.Developments were sl Pages 110-122. quiet which reigned in new 1 Preliminary Efforts Congress appropriated yet ant Race Rock Lighthouse was built,as I have said,under on Race Rock, but without a great difficulties, posed to be a big"bowlder.'L'C both physical and financial.At times one wonders that it was ever built at keeper's dwelling was to be a all. Not only was it in an extremely dangerous location upon which to careful survey of the rock, ho) build a light, but it took also forty years to persuade Congress to provide the plans were modified to bui the necessary funds for its construction. Between 1829-1837, eight vessels merly planned. were lost on Race Point Reef. Accordingly, the first plan was to erect a light station at Race Point on the southwest end of Fishers Island where the lighthouse projectt at at or n Lights and Legends . Harlan Hamilton. 19d,1 200 :a '111 11 NUNN a a WE 2 S.: si )und. so many of the wrecks had occurred.This portion of the coast was exam- trong ined by Lieutenant George M. Bache, U.S.N. in 1838. In his report, he nst a mentioned the accidents at Race Point and wrote: :et of much benefit might be derived from a light upon Race point, if mith the navigation in its neighborhood were free from obstructions;but in ad- dition to the reef which extends for some distance off from Fisher's Is- a the land, the dangerous rock, called Race Rock, lies at a distance of nearly ight. three-fourths of a mile from it_It is difficult,in hazy weather particularly, niter. to form an accurate estimation of the distance of a light;and vessels judg- ;ton: ing from the bearings of one on Race point,that they had given it a suffi- TUc cient berth to clear all dangers,might be decoyed upon the rocks;its erec- -tain tion therefore is not recommended. and Bache's observations apparently settled the matter temorarily as far as :, he Race Point was concerned. Even though Congress appropriated $3,000 and for a lighthouse to be built at Race Rock, no further action was taken at In this time.It was not until a dreadful marine tragedy took place,the sink- ar- ing of the steamer"Atlantic"in 1846, that the entire subject was brought ver- back into sharp relief.However,it was not until 1852 that the Lighthouse find, Board reported "Various attempts have been made, and numerous ap- erty propriations expended in endeavoring to place an efficient and perma- - field nent mark on this point. Buoys cannot be kept on it, and spindles have only remained until the breaking up of the ice in the spring."Within the was preceding 50 years, two different spindles had been placed on the rock. Lith Each was about three inches in diameter and set eighteen inches into the be- ledge, and each had been carried away. As a result of the recommenda- :att tion of the Lighthouse Board, an examination of Race Rock was made the with the view to erecting a third spindle.The Board believed that a whole cts season might be required to set a spindle seven inches in diameter four on feet into the Rock. ht, In 1853, $7,000 was appropriated "for a beacon on Race Rock." This at- took the form of a day beacon, completed in 1856. Nothing further was at- done along this line,but the question of a lighthouse at Race Point was ier revived,the proposed site was examined, and in 1855,another$8,000 was M. appropriated for the station's establishment. But troubles and delays in arose in obtaining valid titles,and Race Rock itself was finally chosen as 2), the site. Developments were slow.On July 28, 1866,after the comparative quiet which reigned in new lighthouse ventures during the Civil War, Congress appropriated yet another$90,000 for the erection of a"beacon" on Race Rock, but without a dwelling. At that time, the rock was sup- s, posed to be a big"bowlder.':On it was proposed to erect a tower,and the at keeper's dwelling was to be atthe south end of Fisher's Island. After a .o careful survey of the rock, however, which disclosed its true dimensions, le the plans were modified to build a concrete base instead of the riprap for- ts merly planned. a _ Between 1838 and 1870, Congress appropriated a total of$108,000 for !` C the lighthouse project at or near Race Rock, and in 1871 an additional Lights and T,egends . Harlan Hamilton 19bli 201 W : 2 5150,000 was provided after surveys indicated that$200,000 would be re- pier quired to build the lighthouse. Smith and Scott began work at last in wide April 1971.The Annual Report of the Lighthouse Board for 1872 reads:"The pier a proposals for the construction of the foundation and the pier of this strut- Pla ture were so excessive in rates, and so much above the amount of the ap- 1878• propriations on hand($95,539 had been expended out of$261,000 appro- crecti priated to June 1872), that no more than the landing and the encroach- (lie w ment of the foundation, the two courses of the pier would be contracted pier w for. This embraces 8,000 tons of dimension-stone weighing.eight to ten tende tons each for the encroachment alone. The landing has been com- The n menced, and good progress made upon it." It was estimated that $75,000 way a would be required to continue the construction of the pier and dwelling. pier. I In 1873, Congress appropriated additional funds, and in 1878 the light- and t( house was completed at a cost of$278,716, a considerable sum in its day. nectic at Sar Construction Ope Due to the peculiar structure of the ledge at Race Rock. Smith and pleted Scott decided first to make it level by laying small broken stones and to buil iiprap upon it.Then they built a wail of ten thousand tons of riprap in an dation oval around the rock.The stones were irregular in shape and weighed on Smith the average about four tons each.Next,they cleared a circular space of 60 feet in diameter in the center of the oval,and a wood and iron framework descr was lowered into this space around the rock.Captain Scott and his divers The then built an artificial concrete island and foundation around and on the built o rock. It is nine feet thick and is in four concentric layers,like a wedding It is sq cake, the lowest layer being 60 feet across and three feet thick. The con- the to% trete was held in place as it was being laid by large one-half-inch iron 67 feet hoops of the desired diameter and width for each layer. The completed fourth foundation projected just eight inches out of the water at mean low tide. every t Smith and Scott apparently completed this phase of their building by No- er of tl vember 1871. On top of this cement foundation, they began Iaying the candle granite-block foundation for their lighthouse. This foundation projects others, out of the water to a height of 30 feet.It is round in plan with a base diam- beacor eter of 57 feet and a diameter at the coping of 55 feet. To t] Work proceeded slowly due to bad weather,disputes over the building Smith contract and,at different periods,because of lack of cement of the proper of histo quality and stones for the pier. In the fall of 1876, for example, the quar- virtual. ters occupied by the workmen were damaged twice by the sea during nal for storms.On November 21, 1876,the crib at the end of the temporary land- as well ing wharf was carried away by high seas. Two workmen lost their lives frames during the construction of the light. Finally, the pier was completed instantia December 1877, ements The pier is conical in shape, 57 feet in diameter at the base and 30 feet : has bet high above the foundation. Large granite blocks form a thick outer wall, Places the center is filled with concrete, and the whole is surmounted by a proj- The ecting coping 55 feet across. In the center of the concrete portion of the nterce Lights and Legends . Harlan Hamilton 19b'( -—202 WE 4Y E Y•� ' y4;N e 4 Y � 4 a be re- pier are spaces for cellars and cisterns. A jetty 53 feet long and 25 feet ast in wide are built on the northerly side to provide a landing place.The entire "Tile pier and jetty are surrounded by riprap. struc- Plans for the keeper's dwelling and tower were approved in March ie ap- 1878.A preliminary examination was made,and treasures were taken for ppro- erecting a temporary pier for landing material and a building for housing oaclt- the working party and storing supplies. In April, the temporary landing 'acted pier was completed at the depot and taken to the station by the lighthouse to ten tender"Mistletoe;"the crib was then sunk in place and filled with stone. com- The materials were conveyed to the lighthouse pier over an inclined rail- '5,000 way about 75 feet long,extending from this temporary landing crib to the Aing, pier. During April, the cut stone for the facing of the keeper's dwelling light- and tower was delivered to the lighthouse wharf at New London, Con- day, necticut,but work was delayed in May,because the"Mistletoe"was in use at Sandy Hook, New Jersey. Operations were resumed on June 11, and the tower was finally com- and pleted in December 1878.Of note is the fact that it took only nine months and to build the tower and keeper's dwelling but seven years to build the foun- in an dation upon which it rested, a further indication of the diffipulties that - -d on Smith and Scott had to face when building on water rather than on land. of 60 work Description of the Lighthouse ivers The two-story keeper's dwelling built on the pier was, like the tower, i the built of granite.The tower rises in front of the dwelling on the south side. ding It is square at the base and octagonal at the top.The light first shone from con- the tower on the night of New Year's Day 1879.The lantern was (and is) iron 67 feet above high water, and the illuminating apparatus was a revolving eted fourth order classical Fresnel lens giving alternate red and white flashes tide. every ten seconds.The light at that time was visible for 14 miles.The pow- No- er of the white flash was 18,000 candles and that of the red flash 16,000 the candles. In 1979, when the lighthouse became automated like so many ects others, the classical lens was removed and a rotating twenty-four inch am- beacon (DCB-224) installed in its place. To this day,to the credit of its two little-known builders.F. Hopkinson ling Smith and Captain Tom Scott, Race Rock Lighthouse has a high degree -per of historic integrity of which they would be proud. The structure itself is lar- virtually unaltered, and its foundation, walls and rock retain their origi- ing nal forms and, with the possible exception of the roof,original materials nd- as well. The sash and door are new, but most of the interior window ves frames and doorways are the original. The stone elements show no sub- in stantial cracks or missing pieces,although a century of exposure to the el- ements of nature has left substantial pitting in the walls.The lighthouse eet has been nominated to be included in the National Register of Historic ✓ all, Places and rightly so. oj- The new lighthouse immediately proved a very great value to com- .lie coerce in the Race and surrounding waters, but no provision had been .Lights and Legends. Harlan Hamilton 19d7 203 r: WF 2 r� M made for a fog signal,and its lack was much felt.Vessels in clear weather thr found the Race well-marked and could approach the light to within a irir short distance,but in thick or foggy weather,they often had a great deal of Sht difficulty in sailing through. Finally, in 1895 a fog signal was officially gar recommended and, as a consequence, a second-class siren and an auxilliary bell were established on October 20, 1896. The signal was an( unsatisfactory, however, due to the poor operation of the engines,so the Fis siren was discontinued on June 8, 1897.The bell was used until February tic" 21, 1898 when a new siren apparatus was installed. In 1929,the fog signal ous was a first-class siren which gave a group of two blasts every thirty sec- shil onds.. Mariners should be aware that today the fog signal is reported at pas times to be inaudible when a vessel is approaching from eastward and is ove close southward of Fishers Island. 391 Ain Wrecks stor Race Rock was a killer until, incredibly, Smith and Scott managed to A build their lighthouse upon it. For example, on August 4, 1837, Captain do* Andrew Mather of the United States revenue cutter "Wolcott," wrote to scen Secretary of the Treasury Woodbury:"Since I have commanded the rove- on r nue cutter on this station (1829), I have assisted eight vessels ashore on jam] Fisher's Island,six of them were on Race point; all of them on nearly the ever same place,or within a space of not more than a hundred yards;and dur- tollc ing that period have known several more to go entirely to pieces, and in R, some instances with loss of life, and a great deal of property." poin Captain Mather believed that the danger in passing through the Horse carv, race, as it was first called, appeared to arise from vessels mistaking the his r tides; the flood,when not allowed for,cut them so much to the northward Carr that they ran upon Race Point. Accordingly, in the New York Journal of the n Commerce, he made some observations which present-day mariners Janu would do well to heed: claps Vessels bound eastward in the night generally run down near Plum even island and the Gull islands; and when abreast of the latter, they steer the out n sound course, which is E.by N.; and too many of them are not aware of seen the strength and course of the flood tide.The first half-flood sets NW.,the Long last half about W.NW.; consequently,when steering E. or E.by N.,they Ho have a strong tide on the starboard bow, which cuts them over to the such northward, and instead of making, as they supposed, an E. or E. by N. lightl course, they are making a NE. by E. or NE. course, which often carries Took, them on Race point,from Which runs far out a reef of rocks underwater. 7 Throughout the history of Connecticut, the perils of The Race were 26th, well known. For instance,a terrible marine tragedy occurred shortly after this st midnight on November 26, 1846, when Captain Isaac K. Dustan sailed hour. the steamer "Atlantic" from New York Harbor. A stormy night had sition caused many of the passengers, including Daniel Webster of Marshfield, again: Massachusetts, to cancel their passage. However, there were 59 people, theins aboard, including crew,when the shrill whistle of the "Atlantic"echoed that w Fights and Legends. Harlan Hamilton 1967 204 1 e:. � rf ��` � -Yip y t�w.-#�, +q ,y:;,w •!. ;„2rt - .. .. . ' z z WE 2 y . through the cold November air. All went well until the "Atlantic" was nine miles off Fishers Island. A steam pipe burst, disabling the steamer. She anchored at once, but since the seas were heavy, the passengers be- gan to fear for their safety. At five o'clock in the afternoon of the following day,the gale increased, and the steamer began to drag her anchor toward the dangerous shores of Fishers Island. At about two o'clock the following morning, the "Allan- tic"was forced into the breakers.At abut 4:30 a.m.,the ship hit a treacher- ous ledge with a sickening thud.Both anchor cables parted instantly,the ship broached to,and she began to break up almost at once.Terrified,the passengers clung to whatever they could. The gigantic seas swept in and over them,and the icy surf dashed them into eternity,one by one.Of the 39 passengers and 20 crew, only 14 made it to shore alive.45 perished. Among the survivors was,Varnham Marsh of New'YoFk, who told a sad story of suffering and death. A strange aftermath of the wreck was revealed-when the storm went down and the local inhabitants on Fishers Island were able to visit the scene.They heard the weird sound of a bell tolling in the surf and found on reaching the wreck that a beam which supported the ship's bell was jammed between the rocks in such a fashion that the bell sounded when- ever the waves broke over it. As long as it remained, the wind and sea tolled a meloncholy reminder of the 45 departed souls. Race Rock was to claim still another victim.Thomas A.Carroll was ap- pointed keeper of the light in 1880. During his service at the tower, he carved many beautiful corner shelves, boxes and picture frames which his niece, Mrs. A.T. Ryan, inherited. Whenever he left the lighthouse, Carroll rowed across the Sound to his home in Noank, Connecticut on the mainland and returned in the same manner.During a severe storm in , January 1885 he was marooned ashore and, after several days had elapsed, believed it was his duty to attempt to row out to the lighthouse even though the waves were high and dangerous. Keeper Carroll started out manfully but was soon lost to sight in the great waves.He was never seen alive again.The following spring his body washed ashore at Groton Long Point, Connecticut. How rough the weather can be at Race Rock, and the consequences of such heavy weather—and also a little about the men who guarded the lighthouse—may be gathered from the official report of George H. Tooker, keeper-in-charge of Race Rock Light Station, April 27, 1431: To Superintendent of Lighthouses, Staten Island at 2:30 p.m. on the 26th, the Barge "Victorious," one of a tow of four,was carried ashore on this station at the east side by the wind and high seas and broke up in one hour.The Captain of the barge,the only man on her,was in a serious po- sition. We had a hard job getting him off, being unable to throw a line against the gale, so the Ist Assistant and the 2nd Assistant tied ropes to themselves,and with the Keeper,crawled over the rocks through the seas that washed over them. and got close enough to reach a large rock and Tights and i,e end,s. Harlan Hamilton 19N _05 .. - ,. rr? 2 la`a fasten a small lute to a long pole that the Captain passed down to them...He then lowered himself to the rock and we worked ourselves back to the dock,and it was some job .. .We gave the man dry clothes and took care of him until today.We lost three hundred feet of two and a half inch ma- irila rope and forty feet of heaving lines...The 1st and 2nd Assistants de- serve great credit for crawling through the seas as it took nerve to do it,as they were washing over them all the time they were on the rocks and both did not hold back for an instant when we had to do the job . . . Significance of the Lighthouse Race Rock Lighthouse ranks among the most significant of American lighthouses not only because of the formidable odds against which it was built and the great expense in its building,but also because it represents the last period of masonry construction for wave-swept or water-bound sites. The enormous difficulty of the construction project illustrated the Lighthouse Board's motivation in developing the iron caisson founda- tion,a technique which,by the end of the 1970s,had superceded masonry in marking such sites.The lighthouse also represents one of the last 19th century aids to navigation projects to follow closely a contemporary ar- chitectural style, in this case the Gothic Revival. In addition,Race Rock Light has significance in the history of the east- ern Long Island Sound region. Proximity to the abundant fisheries off the New England coast, as well as the location between the early centers of population in New England and the Middle Atlantic States, had re- suited in rich maritime heritage for this region. Race Rock figures largely in that heritage, because the dangerous ., winds, tides and currents around the submerged rock formed a major navigational problem. Dozens, and perhaps hundreds, of ships were lost at Race Rock before the erection of the lighthouse,with wrecks averaging one per year during the 1830s, the peak of wind-powered transportation. The stories of the "Wolcott" and the "Atlantic" have already been told. The imposing lighthouse, and the prodigious effort that went into build- ing it by F. Hopkinson Smith and Captain Thomas A.Scott, testify both to Race Rock's navigational importance and to the extraordinary de- mands of this difficult site. a Race Rock Lighthouse marked the climax of 19th century masonry lighthouse construction. Through the third quarter of the century, such massive stone foundations offered the only means to mark permanently wave-swept sites such as rocks and shoals. Timber obviously would not have sufficed, and lightships were less then fully reliable.The increase in trade after 1850 caused a rise in potential losses at Race Rock, leading to agitation for a suitable beacon. The engineering challenge was monu- mental. Ironically, between the time that work on Race Rock began in April 1871 and completed in December 1878, the Lighthouse Board had developed the cast-iron caisson foundation for use at such sites. Made of -bights and Legends. Harlan Hamilton i9b'( 206 ., + }iV • � *trJf?.. v y r R Sp f WFI He ""'Pre-fabricated iron plates bolted together on site, the caisson formed a the shell that was then filled with concrete, creating a rigid, heavy footing. :are The oldest caisson-based aid presently in service in the former Third na- Coast Guard District is the Ship John Shoal Lighthouse in Delaware de- Bay, completed in 1877, one year prior to the completion of Race Rock ,as Light, Thus, Race Rock Lighthouse not only illustrates the condition oth which led to the development of the caisson foundation,but also marks a technological cusp as one of the last masonry-based navigational aids to be built. The lighthouse at Race Rock has yet another claim to fame.It is signifi- :all cant as an example of the stylized lighthouses built in the 1860s and vas 1870s. Before that time, masonry lighthouses generally assumed an nts unadorned,utilitarian appearance.In the 1860s and 1870s,however, new nd lighthouses often followed a contemporary architectural style, [lie This change reflected the newly established solidarity of the Light- la- house Board in the 1850s.Before that time,there was no central adminis- iry tration of lighthouse construction or operation. In the 1850s, with the )th founding of the Federal Lighthouse Board,the government's aid-to-navi- ar- gation function gained a national, administrative identity. While local contractors were still engaged for lighthouse construction,the ccntraliza- st- tion permitted nation-wide control of design. Thus, the stylish light- )ff houses of the 1860s and 1870s were an early expression of this national ;rs stability and centralized planning. -e- Most of the lighthouses from this period followed the Second Empire style. The Gothic Revival styling of Race Rock Light was an exception. US The lighthouse presents a somewhat more monolithic appearance than or the customary Gothic Revival house.Nevertheless,the picturesque quali- Ist ty of the roof treatments, notably the carved rafter ends and pent roofs, lg truly represent the style.The most characteristic Gothic features are the n. pointed-arch openings in the entry pavilion and lower tower.Along with d, the handsome stonework, which is another tribute to its builders Smith J- and Scott, these details form a striking image of the Gothic Revival style, tll and identify the lighthouse clearly as the product of a unique period. y- It is interesting to note that the centralization of design,which first led to stylization in lighthouses,eventually resulted in the standardized iron Y towers of the 1.880s and after, such as Old Field Point Light(1899), Port h Jefferson,New York.Race Rock,therefore,was one of the last lighthouses y to portray the influence of contemporary architectural style. It also re- A mains over 100 years after its construction, mute testimony to the heroic a efforts of two men, F. Hopkinson Smith and Captain Thomas A. Scott, o who accomplished the impossible. jrhts and T,eFends . Harlan Hamilton J-9N . j 207 f{� # , 0- ENC:LOSU E ( 1) TO CJl� UTNOTE, 1.1U11 a MAY 1972 INVENTORY TORN OF HISTORIC PLACES Agency : Third Coast Guard District Date : 7 Dec 1072 1 . Name of property : Mace Rock Light Station . 2 . Location of property : A. State and County: New York, Suffolk B. Latitude and Longitude : N410 14 ' 36" , W72 02 ' 50" C . Township, Ranee and Section : N/A D. Other legal N/A E. Map Reference : Nat ' l Ocean Survey Chart 116-SC, Page A 3 . Mature of Property : A. District { ) Site { ) Building {. X Object { ) B. Description, present condition and use : See next sheet . 4 . Importance of Property - See roperty :See Enclosure (1) . l 5 . Names and adresses of persons preparing this inventory : Allan Zammit, Chief , Structures Section Civil Engineering Branch, Bldg 107 Third Coast Guard District Governors Island New York, New York 10004 EncloSu.LE (3) r _ Ati • RACE ROCK LIGHT STATION Description: 2 story building with attached tower on a round pier, granite construction, good condition, occupied, aid to navigation. Constructed 1878 on rock off southwest end of Fishers Island . Light is 67 ' above water. 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