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Home My WebLink AboutSeptember 09, 2004 - 'History was all about us' The Suffolk Times • September 9, 2004 � • � s or � v�vas a a ou u s � A weekend on the Cape & Nantucket � �� , -,;,,,,, ,�,�,,,�-- �, F m� ,, �Ay�� e �,,.,.."�nrX l�i w� G ;; ,iN � �,,,: BAttsAu�AN� I a.RE going to take a "'� „�M",> �� ° � , i � � n,,;, three-day bus trip to Cape Cod and ,� �,„ � ,�,„,� � � � ��- � k'�,� �� Nantucket and we invite you to travel " � „'� �y-�""' '�� "' ' "`�""" �� "�:" "`' ,„, with us.At 7:30 a.m.the bus will pick '� ,�,�r�' " :"�� ' �� '�� /"�,�m�"�,r^Y�,µn iii��a��l�� a „ � """�"��'r�'"'� b w ��H im, h � � us up and head for the ferry at , ,:�_ x _� ,„,��,� , �,,�h%��,%n,� � � J� ��r��g�-��a.� M � , , �� Orient.Once on our way,we see the � � � � '^�� .3�. ��r w'" "�""" ` �� . . l� � � r,r� ,� �, ��; ..,,., , .. '�� ..a�'. l r nr i � q i i, � i mamcured vmeyards as we pass by, �� > � � ��,��,,,�� """"� � , u��;��"�"�n' ;, ,; " � � °� ' "; u� , , � ,� ��` �,.� ;��r 4 i rr�m*m�w�" �"M,�� i,� � each row so perfectly trimmed,ready � for the mechamcal picker to come a � �,�� h� ' ;', r� 'nr � � ; �� along and strtp the fruit from the � � �� ,� �. , � � �� ,4 b� n nu.xu:.��rr,� r�,uw 9 i:� �� vines to be made into top-grade Long � ; � �� ; �"� +µm�,� � '� �� I�M� ,;,�� , „�� , Island wine. ��,�,�;�� „ �M'� ' '� As we travel �-'�. °�.., ��'"�� .�---�. , FOC.V$ ... _ __ _—�.� :� ' �.�� ' � along,I can see +�:� �•,37 " , . ~ : _�. , ; ON the super-high _ __ �___ ' �i;��;:�j �!' �� NATURE antenna by the .'� ��.�� i `�;. �s police station in �.. j� ��Y� ��------��, _ u�' b Paul Peconic and in - _ ._""'� '':x., � ""- ' �.-'°"�"',�"` . Stoutenburgh amongst the � .. � robes for vari- � I '"• ',� - �� "` p _ _ _ ous radio connections is an osprey ,;�'; �� _ -'�� nest.Many ospreys have already left , � � �s -�•_�� 's;��' j � �, 1 "`�`� � for their winter home in the south. �rt -'�'u,:. ``—� r, ' � ~��cT This os re nest �s the hi hest one in "��" � �� . .,� � P Y g ' -r� �� --�,� , � „ the town of Southold,and one lone �,;A - `'"�.a ❑ 1tS�O❑ OUille t�18t Wlll t81C8 lt t0 � � � / � g� y ` ..x� �Yi��y%i�r��y ; r il i�',�i i bird still han s around before headin '�^��-•-��---%�% the Caribbean and possibly as far �� '� � �� %'� r n� � � � N!� r �� " x w'��` �h�r�*ii��ii� i , � � �,�S/� aWay aS the Amaz,On. ��;�r�;�xMr"i�"�l l� �u��! � ,r, ;v;�r�� , ".�"`,�,"�"""'^�'�i��4mr �� y� b� ��'�� 'i�iY�uM,Al4nri�7y ur�il'��,�1�7�'''�� Once on the ferry,we pass through '�'"°"' "" Plum Gut,as tranquil as an inland Times/Review photos by Barbara Stoutenburgh lake,quite unusual for this notoriously Lobsters for sale in the busy harbor of Nantucket. Later we were all to take part in a rough area.I chuckle when I think of �Lobster Bash' at the Irish Village Inn. the time when we were in our sailboat and tried to get through.We found the current so strong that our sailboat letting you take advan- stood still.We literally didn't move for tage of the wide and half an hour.Finally more wind came deep canal. It saves Nantucket the sea was up and we slowly moved ahead. many mile� of sea trav- so rough that the ship �The more we It was a smooth trip across the cl,often on quite rough took advantage of the �W Of Ca� Sound and up the Thames River, scas.We remembered y«iet waters of the Cod the more wLere we got a view of the beautiful this area well,for years Cape Cod Canal and � Cuast Guard square-rigged training ago Barbara and I were then went out into it reminded us ship the Eagle.Once off the ferry and on one of the Lindblad Cape Cod Bay.It saved � �ong Island.� out of the congestion,we were on our cruise ships,where I us many unpleasant way up Route 195.Then,hours later, served as one of thc hours on the rough we swung off onto Route 25 headed naturalists,and on our s�`15. for the Cape. wa back from We crossed over the Cape Cod Canal,which cuts travel time for boaters and offers calmer waters b lights,no i oar s and no neon Of coursc thcrc wcrc thc tourist signs.Real estate ranges from cot- traps.We were told not to miss the tages covered with rose vines to the ,,,��,;., �;�#��,�;; �, � ,M i Christmas Tree Shop,and so most of 18th-century sea captains' homes that ��'"'��, "� �, �;;�., , . � � � us went.We saw very little Christmas line the curving roads and cobble- an,r„ � �" �x'"'"'°�� '` �+' ��"`"�� but many other things to spend our stone streets.All buildings must,by r��r��,�;'r�u,�u�,��N�„��.� � ,;, '`�� , ' money on.It seemed everyone came law,be gray-shingled.IYs all part of � �"'" � out with a package,some small and keeping the old look.The average � ��'"`""�'�, � � ""� '�°�� some large.And so our first day was home now runs$1,250,000,but on the �di'�% ��„�� over,and after dinner�we were put�up water they run to many millions. �,�„ , ,�';% %� , r � � at the Hyannis Harbar Hotel.That We passed cranberry bogs,which �" � ,-% �'� �%/ „" �'r��" night sleep came easy. are having a hard time trying to sur- � �u��"''� "��'�� '� ,,, ,� r�� T�';,' The second day started with a 7 vive in today's real estate market.We �� ^ � � �� ,� .", ; a.m.buffet breakfast and then off on were told the cranberry got its name ' A'��' � � t;�� "m '^ a ferryboat to cruise to the island of i'rom the fact that the Indians thought � �� " ��°, ; '�� ,�` �a""'° , � Nantucket As we waited for the ferry thc blossom of the cranberry looked �� `r�„��,,��" �� " to leave we could see ocean-going vciy much like the head of the sand P,m,��T S ��..� „�; , � �, fishing boats tied up that seemed out hill crane and so they called them I, ,��„ �'4��,,�.�� of place amongst all the spit and pol- craneberries;later that would be �� r �R ish of the pleasure boats that clut- changed to cranberries. �°r'��"'" °"� �;n "��'� tered the harbor.We sat on the upper At the end of our,tour of the island �'�'��' � "�� deck with the wind and sun in our ti�� we wandered the cobblestone streets ° faces and Nantucket Island,the whal- of Nantucket,lined with shops of �� , "{�' ��; w" in center of the world in the 1800s, � � »,�, g every size and variety.Parked along � ° just ahead of us. the streets were pickup trucks filled �',� , It was a two-hour ride on a fairly with flowers for sale,adding to the !�,�'"� ;; .� •, ,;,, ;" ._ ., " calm sea.I saw few birds except a atmosphere of the place.We'll have �. flight of har(equin ducks,whicr was fond memories of this island and its � ' -, quite unusual.As we approached the bogs,its churches with their white ... � .��,,,,� •.v„,,y outer breakwater there were sooty steeples,its cobblestone streets,its u'�' '° - shcarwaters everywhere.This is an harbor with untold numbers of boats, A lucky young fisherman along the occan bird that is seen throughout thc �nd its history drenched in whaling. dock in Nantucket. �vorld and is probably one of the most Back at our hotel on the Cape,we common pelagic birds.On the rocks all grabbed a nap and got ready for we could see the old faithful ruddy dinner,which turned out to be a lob- turnstones,another shorebird that is ster bash at the Irish Village Inn,and one of the world travelers found in then to bed.Sunda found us at 7 a.m. Tl�e more wc saw of just about every port on the face of over a buffet breakfast,and then off Cape Cod,thc more it the earth. to ex lore some of the oldest arts of reminded us of Long I might add a bit of interest about Ca Cod.We sto ed in the villa e Island.There were the black-backed gulls that were seen of Sandwich,which has its places where they had in and around the harbor.This is their pine barrens,sandy soil, true stomping ground all along the history in glass with a tlat areas,salt marshes beautiful museum. coast.A hundred years or so ago we VVe went on to one of and,yes,even the cran- had no black-backed gulls on Long the hi hli hts of the berry bogs that the Island,but today they're common. g g Cape is so well known They've moved down from the north whole trip,visiting the Heritage Museum and for.We explored and made themselves quite at home Gardens,where we ram- Hyannis,the hub of the in our waters,nesting on Gardiners, Cape,where we stopped and Plum and Fishers islands.They are big bled and walked through stretched our legs at the Kennedy birds and quite aggressive. 100 acres of magnificent- Memorial.We drove through the vil- We were told there were 1,200 ly cared-for grounds.There were lage of Hyannisport and visited St. moorings in Nantucket Harbor.I superior plantings of all kinds,partic- Francis Xavier Church,where we believe it.Every size boat from a ularly of daylilies and rhododendrons, walked through to get a feeling of the small sailboat to monster-sized pol- and then there were buildings with importance of this area where ished boats—not just one or two,but exhibits of early American life and a President Kennedy spent time during a dozen or more of these"mansions beautiful old carousel we all taok a his summers and went to church.We on the water." ride on.It was a great place and one saw the pew where JFK and his fami- We had a tour bus with a very that should be on your list to visit if ly sat to warship.Yes,history was all informed guide take us you ever go to Cape Cod. about us. around the island. A big buffet lunch at ihe Daniel Smaller than nearby Webster Inn ended our busy day. Martha's Vineyard and After a few hours on the road,we more exclusive,Nan- looked forward to getting on the ferry tucket lies south of Cape 1t 7 p.m.and heading tiome.As they Cod and claims one of say,"There's no place like home." the easternmost points in Next week,back home,we'll take you the continental United out on thc hay for a September day States.There are no stop- �n thc watcr.